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SCHOOL NEEDLEWO 



REVISED BY 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



A BOOK WRITTEN FOR THE BEGINNER OF 

ANY AGE AND IN ANY SCHOOL 



BY 
OLIVE C. HAPGOOD 

FORMERLY TEACHER OF SEWING IN BOSTON PUBLIC SCHOOLS 

REVISED AND LARGELY REWRITTEN 

BY 

ELLA J. SPOONER 

ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR OF DOMESTIC ART, SIMMONS COLLEGE, BOSTON 



Learn the sound qualities of all useful stuffs, and make everything of the 
best you can get, whatever its price . . . and then, every day, make some little 
piece of useful clothing, sewn with your own fingers as strongly as it can be 
stitched ; and embroider it or otherwise beautify it moderately with fine needle- 
work, such as a girl may be proud of having done. — John Ruskin 



GINN AND COMPANY 

BOSTON • NEW YORK • CHICAGO • LONDON 
ATLANTA • DALLAS • COLUMBUS ■ SAN FRANCISCO 

1 I J 



COPYRIGHT, 1893, BY OLIVE C. HAPGOOD 



COPYRIGHT, 1922, BY GINN AND COMPANY 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



222.3 






Wbc gtftenteum %rcgg 

GINN AND COMPANY • PRO- 
PRIETORS • BOSTON • U.S.A. 



MAY -5 1922 
©CI.A659960 



PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION 

No attempt is made to offer a course in clothing. It is as- 
sumed that the course for the school is prescribed with the 
desired emphasis on selection, cost, and suitability of clothing. 
Much help has been given in recent publications to both 
teacher and pupil along these lines. This book has a different 
purpose. Wherever sewing is taught, the stitches and processes 
of construction are naturally an important part of the work. 
The beginner is not conscious of the importance of establishing 
the right habits of work from the start ; but standard, accuracy, 
and speed all depend on knowing what to do and the simplest 
way of doing it. The experienced worker often forgets the many 
stages through which the beginner must pass in the learning 
process and the help that is needed along the way. It is with 
these details for the beginner, in whatever school she may be, 
that this book has always been concerned. 

ELLA J. SPOONER 



in 



PREFACE 

The importance of instruction in sewing in the public schools 
is now generally recognized. As manual training comes into 
greater prominence, new methods and helps are necessary. 
The demand for them was felt by the author, and this book is 
the result of practical experience in the classroom. Its purpose 
is to assist both teacher and pupil ; lightening the teacher's 
labors by saving constant repetition, and giving the pupil a 
manual for reference, with the hope that the information thus 
acquired will assist in fitting her for the duties of life. Sim- 
plicity with completeness has been the aim throughout. 

The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to the 
teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to members of 
the school board for their advice and interest in the preparation 
of the work. 

OLIVE C. HAPGOOD 



IV 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER I 

Tools for Sewing. How to use them i 

CHAPTER II 
Stitches used in Plain Sewing 15 

CHAPTER III 
Ornamental Stitches 31 

CHAPTER IV 
Processes of Construction 47 

CHAPTER V 
Mending 88 

CHAPTER VI 
Machines 103 

CHAPTER VII 

Some Suggestions for the Application of Stitches and 
Construction 109 

CHAPTER VIII 
More about Cloth and Tools 137 

INDEX i 49 

v 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

CHAPTER I 

TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 
Tools Needed 

A thimble which fits the middle finger of the right hand. 

An emery bag, with which to clean and polish the needles. 

A paper of needles of suitable length and size for the work 
to be done. 

A pincushion with a supply of pins. 

A needlebook in which to keep the needles when not in use. 

A tape measure. 

Thread, in colors and sizes suitable for the work to be done. 

A pair of scissors. 

A box or bag which is of a convenient size to hold these 
tools and the smaller pieces of work. 

Help in choosing the right tools. For best results in sewing 
and for the greatest accomplishment it is necessary to use the 
right tools — those best suited to the work which is being 
done. The ability to choose these tools wisely is an important 
part of the training which the student should receive. 

Needles 

A needle is a small piece of steel pointed at one end and 
having an eye at the other end to receive a thread. 

Needles are sold in papers of twenty-five. There are ten 
papers in a package ; four packages contain a thousand needles. 



2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Makes. Milward, John English, Roberts, and Crowley are 
but four of the many makes that may be obtained. These are 
of excellent quality, and at least one of these makes can be 
found at the small-wares counter of a department store. 

Kinds. Milliners needles are the longest sewing needles. As 
the name suggests, they are made of a convenient length for 
millinery work. Sometimes this length of needle is used for 
basting. In dressmaking, long lines of basting can be done 
more quickly with this length than with a shorter needle. 

Sharps are a medium-length needle convenient for general 
work. Unless the fingers are very short this is the length of 
needle most generally used. 

Ground-downs are shorter than sharps and are especially 
suited for general use for the person with short fingers. These 
needles are of a convenient length for fine work, especially for 
fine hemming. > 

Betweens are the shortest sewing needles made. They are 
a little shorter than ground-downs but their use is similar. 

Special needles are manufactured for various uses. 

Darnel's and double-long darners, as their names suggest, 
are two lengths used for darning. They have sharp points and 
long, slender eyes to carry the coarse darning material. The 
darners are convenient for mending small holes, while the double- 
long darners are more useful for the larger holes. 

Crewel needles have long, slender eyes and sharp points. In 
a given size they correspond with sharps. They are especially 
convenient for featherstitching and for embroidery. 

Carpet, or tapestry, needles are short needles with blunt 
points and long, large eyes for heavy thread or yarn. They 
are especially satisfactory for sewing on materials which have 
open meshes. 

Chenille needles. The only difference between these and the 
carpet needles is that chenille needles have sharp points. 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 3 

Glovers needles are very convenient for work on leather. 
As the name suggests, they are for use on gloves. They are 
three-sided instead of round and have very long, sharp points. 

Sizes of needles. The sizes of needles vary, and it is neces- 
sary to learn to choose the right size, for satisfactory results, 
ease of work, and speed. The small numbers represent the 
coarse needles and the larger numbers represent the finer ones. 
The following is a list of the sizes in which the different kinds 
of needles are made : 

Milliners' sizes 1 to 10 

Sharps sizes 00 to 12 

Ground-downs sizes 00 to 12 

Betweens sizes 00 to 12 

Crewel sizes 1 to 12 

Carpet, or tapestry sizes 17 to 26 

Chenille sizes 17 to 26 

Darners and double-long darners . . . sizes 00 to 7 

One needle with the proper care should last a long time. 
Since there are twenty-five needles in one paper, and since 
different sizes .are necessary for different kinds of work, the 
individual supply would be unnecessarily large if a paper of 
each size were required. Economy and convenience suggest 
the use of a paper containing a variety of sizes. These assorted 
papers must be chosen carefully. Choose the assortment which 
has the numbers needed most often. 

The following is a list of the assortment of sizes found 
in a single paper : 

5 to 10 1 to 6 

3 to 9 7 to 9 

4 to 8 6 to 12 

Usually it is wise to decide on the size of thread best suited 
for the garment, or part of a garment, being made ; then 



4 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

choose a needle which will easily carry that thread. For satis- 
factory results the following sizes are used most often : 

For Six-Cord Thread Needle Number 

36-40 7 

50-60-70 8 

80-90 9 

100-110 10-11 

Thread 

Thread is made of twisted strands of cotton, flax, or silk. 

Thread made from flax is called linen thread and is very 
strong. Linen thread on spools for sewing is made in black 
and in white only. Colored linen thread is sold in skeins for 
embroidery, for sewing carpets, etc. 

Thread made from silk is called silk or twist and is used 
for sewing on silk and wool materials. 

Luster thread is made from mercerized cotton, is tightly 
twisted, and, as the name suggests, has luster. It is stronger 
than ordinary cotton thread of a corresponding number. In 
the fine numbers it is sometimes used instead of silk. The 
coarse numbers are so strong that they are used frequently 
instead of linen thread. 

Machine thread. Years ago, when all sewing was done by 
hand, most of the thread was sold in skeins. It was not always 
smooth and free from knots. When the sewing machine was 
invented it was necessary to have strong, smooth thread in a 
convenient form on spools, therefore special machine thread 
was manufactured. We still find the name " machine thread" 
on some of our spools, but the same thread is used for both 
hand and machine sewing. 

Six-cord thread. A piece of thread is made of strands 
twisted together. "Six-cord" means that two strands are 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 5 

twisted together and then three of these double strands are 
twisted. This is the thread most commonly used. 

Three-cord thread in the coarser numbers is used only for basting. 

Yardage. Cotton thread is commonly sold on spools con- 
taining 100, 150, and 200 yards. It is necessary to notice the 
yardage when buying thread, to know that the price corresponds 
with the amount that is received. 

Makes. There are standard makes of thread, some of which 
can be found at all stores. They are J. & P. Coats, Clark's 
O. N. T., Clark's Mile-End, Willimantic, etc. 

Finish. Cotton thread is finished with either a soft or glazed 
finish. For hand and machine sewing, use the soft finished 
thread. For the chain-stitch, or automatic, machine use the 
glazed finish. Brook's glace is an example of this kind. 

Sizes. In black and white, cotton thread is made in sizes 
from 8 to 200, as follows: 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 30, 36, 40, 
and then every tenth number to 200. The smaller numbers are 
the coarser, and the sizes decrease as the numbers increase. 
The usual numbers for colored thread are 50 and 60, although 
a few colors are made in other numbers. 

The Use of Some of the Tools 

Opening a new spool. A new spool of thread can be un- 
fastened by slipping a pin under the thread where it is caught 
in the wood. To unwind, hold the spool in the left hand, with 
the end of thread between two of the fingers. Unwind the 
required length. Cut the thread diagonally between the spool 
and fingers of the left hand which are holding the thread. 
Fasten the end in the cut provided for this purpose on the 
rim of the spool. 

Length of thread. For ordinary sewing use a piece of thread 
the length of the desk, or about the length of the arm. The 
length of thread varies, however, with the type of stitch. For 



6 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

overhanding, hemming, or any stitches where the thread kinks 
and knots, use a short length. For basting, use a thread slightly 
longer than that suggested for general use. It is easier and 
quicker to thread the needle often with the short threads 
than to pick out the knots in the longer threads. 

If the thread kinks remove the needle and beginning at the 
end near the cloth draw the thread tightly between the thumb 
nail and forefinger. This removes the extra twists which have 
come in the thread during the sewing and prevents knotting. 




Fig. i. Threading a needle 



Threading the needle. When the thread was cut from the 
spool, it was cut diagonally. This gives a pointed end for thread- 
ing the needle. Do not bite the end of the thread ; it wets the 
thread and causes the work to become soiled, and it cracks the 
enamel of the teeth. 

Hold the needle firmly between the thumb and forefinger of 
the left hand, with the eye above the fingers. 

Take the end of the thread between the thumb and fore- 
finger of the right hand about a half inch back from the pointed 
end and put the thread through the eye of the needle. 

Needling the thread. For some it seems easier to hold the 
thread in the left hand and the needle in the right and place the 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 7 

eye of the needle over the thread end. The chief advantage 
in this method is that the needle is in the right hand ready 
for sewing. 

To thread darning cotton or embroidery cotton in a long-eyed 
needle. Cut the fuzz from the thread. 

Pinch the end between the left thumb and forefinger several 
times to make a flat end for threading. 

Insert the thread in the eye. 

To thread zephyr. Hold the end of zephyr between the 
left thumb and forefinger, allowing one-half inch to show. 

Lay the point of the needle on the cushion of the forefinger 
and over the zephyr. 

With the left thumb fold the end 
of the zephyr closely over the needle. 

Withdraw the needle and place 
the eye of the needle over the loop 

" y * Fig. 2. A knot in the thread, 

To tie a knot. To make a knot, before it is drawn up 

as in Fig. 2, wind the thread around 

two or three fingers, cross the ends, and put one end through 
the loop. Slip the loop from the fingers and tighten. 

To tie a knot at the end of a thread. Hold the needle with 
the thread in the right hand. 

Place the end of the thread to be knotted across the upper 
part of the cushion of the left forefinger. 

Hold the thread in place with the left thumb. 

Wind the thread around the end of the left forefinger once. 

Press the left thumb and forefinger closely together and roll 
the loop of thread toward the end of the forefinger. 

Place the second finger over the thread on the thumb. 

Lift the forefinger out of the loop. 

Draw up the thread with the right hand, and tighten the 
knot between the left thumb and middle finger. 




8 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



To fasten the thread in sewing. Take two or three stitches in 
the same place, making a double stitch. If there is much strain 
on the fastening, make a double stitch and finish with a button- 
hole stitch. In some cases it is better to sew back over the 
last few stitches for a fastening. 

The size of needle and thread to be used depends upon the 
quality of the work. Several sizes of thread may be used on 




Fig. 3. Tying a knot 



different parts of the same garment. In all cases, choose a 
needle that is of suitable size for the work to be done and for 
the thread which it is to carry. 

The Thimble 

Thimbles are made of celluloid, gold, silver, steel, aluminum, 
etc. The price varies according to the material from which 
they are made (see p. 146). 

Size. The thimble should fit the middle finger of the right 
hand, for the right-handed person. It should be tight enough 
and high enough to prevent the nail pressing against the inside 
of the top. It should not be tight enough to cause a heavy 
pressure against the root of the nail. 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 9 

Use of thimble. From the beginning form the habit of 
wearing the thimble when sewing, and learn to use it correctly. 
The top or back of the thimble should be pressed against the 
eye end of the needle to push it through. Whether the top or 
back should be used will depend on the relative length of thumb 
and middle finger and the length of the needle. Try both 
positions and determine which is more convenient. Never use 
the side of the thimble toward the inside of the hand. 




Fig. 4. The thimble and needle in position for sewing 



Thimble drill. Practice is sometimes necessary to overcome 
the awkward feeling of the thimble and to help with its 
correct use. 

Use a needle and thread of convenient size. 

Place the thimble on the middle finger. 

Hold the point end of the needle between the end of the 
thumb and forefinger of the right hand. 

Place the thimble against the eye end of the needle. 

Push the needle forward between the right thumb and 
forefinger. 

With the left hand push the point back into its former position. 

Repeat until it can be done easily. 



10 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Scissors and Shears 

There are many kinds of shears used in garment making 
(see p. 144). 

Requirements. For the work in sewing it is necessary to 
have shears or scissors suitable for the work done. They should 
have good points and an edge sharp enough to cut easily. 

Makes. There are many makes, but it is wise to buy a good 
quality of steel, that can be sharpened and used for years. 




Fig. 5. a, scissors ; b, buttonhole scissors ; c, shears ; d, pocket scissors 

The Universal, Wiss, and Keen Kutters are but three of the 
satisfactory makes that can be bought. 

Use. Do not cut against pins or anything hard that will 
notch the edge of the blades. If there are two sizes of handle 
ring, place the thumb in the smaller and the last two or three 
fingers in the larger. This brings the narrow, pointed blade 
down against the table when cutting. If the rings are both 
the same size, determine the position by the shape of the 
blade. The narrow, pointed blade should be down when cutting. 
When using the shears or scissors always point them azvay 
from the body. When cutting around a pattern keep the 
shears at the right of the pattern, for convenient use. 

Learn to cut with a long, even stroke. 

Shears at least six inches in length should be used for 
garment cutting. 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM n 

Cloth 

i 

Cloth is a fabric woven on a loom from yarn made of cotton, 
flax, silk, or wool (see Chapter VII). 

Cotton is the cheapest and silk the most expensive in price. 
From cotton are made many qualities of unbleached, half- 
bleached, and bleached cloth. Muslin, long cloth, cambric, nain- 
sook, batiste, percale, gingham, and chambray are all made 
of cotton. 

Flannel, cashmere, broadcloth, serge, and many others are 
made from wool. 

Linen cloth is made in all grades, from the finest linen lawn 
to heavy canvas ; it is used for collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, 
tablecloths, napkins, towels, etc. 

Silk is made into dress-silks, ribbons, satins, velvets, plushes, etc. 

Cloth is woven with two sets of threads, the warp and the woof. 

The warp threads are those which are put on the loom first. 
They are the lengthwise threads and are usually stronger and 
more tightly twisted than the crosswise threads. 

The woof threads are the crosswise threads woven over and 
under alternate warp threads. These threads are sometimes 
called the weft or filling threads. 

To distinguish between warp and woof threads. It is often 
necessary to determine which are the warp threads in an irregu- 
lar piece of cloth from which the selvage has been removed. 
Ravel out one of each set and test the strength. The stronger 
is the warp. Hold the edge taut in the position to. tear. With- 
out actually tearing, determine the strain necessary to break the 
threads. Test the other set of threads in the same way. Again 
the stronger is the warp. 

The selvage is the self edge formed on the two sides of the 
cloth as the weaving progresses by the turning of the woof 
threads around the outside warp threads. 



12 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




Fig. 6. A line showing a true 
bias 



The bias is a diagonal line of cloth. 

The true bias is the diagonal of the square formed by the 

warp threads on one side and the 
woof threads on the other. 

To find the true bias, fold the 
cloth on the diagonal, with the warp 
threads exactly in line with the woof 
threads underneath. Crease the di- 
agonal fold, open out the material, 
and cut along the crease. 

The garment bias is any diagonal 
that is not the true bias. 

To prepare cloth for cutting. 
Cloth is woven with the warp and 
woof threads at right angles to each other. In the finishing 
processes, however, the cloth is frequently pulled out of 
shape, and the direction of the threads is 
changed. If this condition exists, pull the 
cloth until the warp and woof threads are per- 
pendicular to each other. This is done by 
stretching the cloth diagonally toward what 
seems to be the shorter side. 

A raw edge is an edge that has been cut 
or torn. 

A fold is made by doubling one part of the 
cloth over the other. 

To tear a piece of cloth, cut in for about an 
inch following a thread of the cloth. Take a 
corner on each side 'of the cut edge firmly 
between the thumb and forefinger of each hand, roll the edge 
away from the body, and tear quickly and steadily. A fine 
material must be torn carefully, or the direction may change 
and the material be spoiled. 




Fig. 7. A line 
showing the gar- 
ment bias 



TOOLS FOR SEWING. HOW TO USE THEM 13 

Measurements needed in Sewing 
The following illustration represents a three-inch rule : 



12 3 



Fig. 8. A measure showing the fractions of an inch 

The divisions are similar to those found on the tape measure, 
but their arrangement varies. 

The first inch is divided into halves and quarters, the second 
into eighths, and the third into sixteenths. 

Careful measuring is a good beginning for satisfactory sewing. 

Fractions of a yard : 

3 feet, or 36 inches, in a yard. 
18 inches in one half of a yard. 
9 inches in a quarter of a yard. 
27 inches in three quarters of a yard. 
41 inches in an eighth of a yard. 
2\ inches in a sixteenth of a yard. 

A cardboard gauge and its use. There are many parts of a 
garment which must be measured carefully in the making. If 
the same measurement is used many times for a hem or seam, 
the results will be more satisfactory ; and time will be saved if 
a gauge is used instead of the tape measure. 

Use a piece of cardboard with a square corner and straight 
edge. Measure from the corner the amount needed — the 
width of the hem, seam, or whatever is to be measured. 

Mark accurately with a pencil the point measured. 



14 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



At the point marked, cut a gash in the cardboard, perpen- 
dicular to the edge, making the gash at least one-fourth inch. 

A B D 




Fig. 9. A cardboard gauge 

On the side of the gash away from the corner cut a diagonal 
line to the end of the gash. 

AB represents the desired measurement ; 

BC, the gash at the point marked for the measurement ; 

CD, the diagonal line to the end of the gash. 



CHAPTER II 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 

Stitch and space. There is always confusion in the naming 
of stitch and space. In one way it is an unimportant point, 
but, on the other hand, unless there is a consistent use of the 
terms, directions are not clear. For convenience, then, in the 



^^V t A\l^^|§£P^^ 




Fig. io. Even basting stitches. Needle inserted for a stitch 

following directions, that which is taken up by the needle when 
it is placed in the cloth will be called the stitch. The distance 
between the points at which the needle is inserted in the cloth 
will be called the space. 

Basting 

Use. Basting is a large stitch used to hold materials in 
place until the permanent stitch is made. It is used for 
seams, hems, etc. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. For even basting, 
the position of the hands is the same as for the running stitch 
(see p. 1 8). 

For uneven basting, place the work on the table. Brace the 
little finger of the right hand on the table. Point the needle 

15 



i6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



toward the left and take the stitch. As the work progresses, 
the cloth is raised slightly from the table with the left hand. 

The convenience of the method of holding the work, whether 
in the hand or on the table, will determine in every case 
whether the even or uneven basting is to be used. 




Fig. ii. Uneven basting stitches. Needle in position 

The direction of working is from right to left. 
Method of beginning. Begin with a knot. Use a knot and 
backstitch if the basting is a preparation for fitting. 






^/?'^w//A\u.K#»tf\l'#nw/A»W<^ 




Fig. 12. Needle in position for beginning a line of uneven basting 

Method of finishing. Take three or four short stitches parallel 
or perpendicular to the last stitch and leave a half-inch end 
of thread. 

The appearance of even basting on the right side is an even 
stitch and space, each about one-fourth inch long. For un- 
even basting, the space over which the thread passes is about 
three eighths of an inch and the stitch one eighth of an 
inch long. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



17 



•M!niUMuHi'!tmiH(iinn/(nnumin^ii»itiiiiniii/m\\}mit/<wuiiir<>i: 



The length of the stitch and the space may vary with 
the materials and the use of the stitch on the garment. 

Tailor basting is used fre- 
quently. In this there is a short 
stitch slanting toward the left, 
and the thread covering the 
space between the stitches slants 
in the opposite direction. 

Combination basting is a varia- 
tion of the uneven basting, two 
or three running stitches and a long space between. This is 
used when the material must be held firmly only at intervals. 




.^rg^ffffrrt-j 



Fig. 13. Showing the method of 
finishing a line of basting 




Fig. 14. Combination basting 



Running 



Use. Running is a series of small, even stitches used for 
joining parts of a garment where there is little strain and the 
material is sheer, for gathering, and for hand tucking. 






- Ax 




18 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Position of the work, hands, and needle for fly-running. 
Hold the work between the thumb and forefinger of the left 
hand and place the needle with the thimble against its eye 
end, hold the needle firmly near the point, with the right fore- 
finger at the back of the cloth and needle. Hold the cloth 
between the hands firmly, with not more than a half-inch space 
between the two hands. The stitches are taken with a weaving 
motion of the right hand while pushing the needle forward. 




Fig. i 6. Showing the position of the hands, cloth, and needle for 

fly-running 



For the best results the needle should not be removed from 
the cloth until the line of running is finished or until the end 
of the thread is reached. 

The direction of work is from right to left. 

Method of beginning. For gathering, begin with a knot and 
a backstitch to avoid the possibility of the knot's pulling through. 
In other cases use a concealed knot or a double stitch. 

To make a joining, finish the old thread with a double stitch 
on the wrong side and begin the new thread with a knot. 

If the double stitch is unsatisfactory, as in sheer material, 
leave the old thread and cut it close to the material on the 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



19 



wrong side. With the new thread start back from the end and 
by sewing over the last stitches make a secure joining. 

Method of finishing. The usual method is to finish with a 
double stitch on the wrong side. 

The appearance of running stitches is the same on the right 
and wrong sides — even stitches, and spaces with the length de- 
termined by the use and the material on which they are placed. 

For gathering, an uneven running stitch is sometimes used : 
a short stitch is taken and the thread passes over a slightly 
longer space. 



Backstitch 

Backstitching, sometimes called hand stitching, is a series 
of fine stitches with the appearance of machine stitching on 
the right side. 

Use. Backstitching is used to join seams, bindings, and 
facings, also to fasten tapes, etc. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the work 
diagonally along the cushion of the left forefinger. Pointing 



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the needle toward the left, take the stitches as follows : forward 
underneath the length of two stitches, then back on the right 
side the length of one stitch, then insert the needle for the 
next stitch. 

Work from right to left. 



20 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Method of beginning. Begin with a knot concealed, or leave 
an end of thread to be held with the first four stitches. 

Method of finishing. Finish with a double stitch on the 
wrong side. 

The appearance on the right side is of fine machine stitching. 

On the wrong side there is a series of overlapping stitches. 

The correct tension of the thread is important for satisfactory 
results. If the thread is pulled too tight, the threads of the 
cloth are separated. If the thread is not tight enough, the 
stitches appear uneven, and the seam is not held firmly. 

Half-backstitch 

Use. This stitch is made more quickly than the backstitch 
and should be used only where less strength is needed. 

The position of the work and needle, the direction of work- 
ing, the beginning and ending are the same as the backstitch. 




Fig. 18. Half-backstitch 



The length of the stitch on the wrong side is different. This 
is the length of three stitches instead of two. The space on 
the right side over which the thread passes before the needle 
is inserted for the next stitch is the length of one stitch. 

The appearance on the right side is that of the running 
stitch with space and stitch of equal length. 

On the wrong side there are long, overlapping stitches which 
are not only unattractive in appearance but lack strength. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



21 



MMHu<riilM|VII«lM\H||lll«l><l>'<ll 




Combination Stitch 

This is a very useful stitch, giving a satisfactory appearance 
on both the right and wrong sides. It starts with running 
stitches and adds a double stitch at intervals. 

Position of work, hands, and 
needle. Hold the work as for 
the backstitch, take two running 
stitches, then a double stitch, 
which is made by passing back 
on the right side one space be- 
fore inserting the needle the 
length of the running stitch. 
Method of beginning and finishing. The beginning and 
ending are the same as for the backstitch. 

The appearance on the right side is of three adjoining stitches, 
then a space the length of one, then three stitches. 

The appearance on the wrong side is of running stitches 
with every other one a double stitch. 

Increase the number of running stitches between the double 
stitches when greater speed and less strength are required. 



Fig. 19. Combination stitch 




Fig. 20. Running and backstitch 

Sometimes a backstitch is used instead of the double stitch but 
with less satisfactory results. The backstitch is not as strong as 
the double stitch, and the appearance on the wrong side is less 
attractive. This is called the running and backstitch. 



22 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

OVERHANDING, OR TOP SEWING 

Use. Overhanding is a close, shallow stitch on the edge, 
used to hold two or more finished edges together. It is used 




Fig. 21. Overhanding or top sewing. Needle in position for the stitch 

to join selvedges or folded edges ; for napery hemming ; for 
joining lace or a rolled edge of embroidery to a finished edge 
on a garment. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the work 
horizontally along the upper part of the cushion of the left 
forefinger with the left hand parallel with the body. 




Fig. 22. Method of joining the thread in a line of overhanding 

Point the needle directly toward the body. The needle 
should be perpendicular to the edge of the seam. 

In general, work from right to left, but satisfactory results 
may be obtained by working from left to right. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



23 



Method of beginning. Never use a knot. Insert the needle 
in the part of the seam nearest the body. Leave a half-inch 




^^BSSBSmm 




Fig. 23. An overhanded seam opened, to show the appearance of the 
stitches on the right side in relation to the wrong 

end of thread. Lay this end of thread along the seam and 
sew over it with the first three stitches to hold it securely. 

Joining. With the old 
thread take a stitch 
through the back part of 
the seam. Unthread the 
needle, leaving an end. 
Insert the needle with the 
new thread in the nearer 
piece of cloth, opposite 
the old thread end. Leave 
a half-inch end. 

Hold the ends of both 
threads in place along the 
seam with the left thumb 
and sew over them with 
three stitches. 

To fasten the thread, turn the work and sew over the last 
three or more stitches, according to the strain on the seam. 




Fig. 24. The position of the work 
for overhanding 



24 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Overhanding is usually done on the wrong side, giving the 
appearance on the right side of parallel stitches perpendicular 
to the line of the seam. 

On the wrong side the thread slants between the stitches. 

The correct tension of the thread is important for good 




■**v. 




Fig. 25. The position of the hem Fig. 26. The position of the hem 
and needle for the beginning of a and needle for the hemming stitch. 



line of hemming is shown 



A method of joining is shown 



results. If too tight, a ridge is formed ; if too loose, the 
stitches are uneven and the seam is unattractive. 

Care is necessary to avoid deep stitches. They form a ridge, 
and the seam cannot be creased flat. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



25 



Hemming 

Use. Hemming is a series of small, slanting stitches used 
in finishing hems, facings, etc. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the work 
in a vertical position across the cushion of the left forefinger 
with the fold of the hem toward the inside of the hand. 
Point the needle toward the left shoulder in taking the stitch. 

Method of beginning. There are many ways of begin- 
ning a line of hemming. The place on the garment and 
the kind of material will determine the method to be used. 




Fig. 27. The appearance of a line of hemming on the right side 



1. If the material is heavy, use a knot concealed under the 
edge of the hem. Avoid this method with sheer material. 

2. Point the needle away from the body and slip it in the 
first turn of the fold of the hem, a fourth of an inch back to 
the beginning of the hem. This thread end will be held by 
the first hemming stitches. 

3. Take a stitch through the folded edge of the hem leaving 
a fourth-inch end of thread. Sew over this end with the first 
hemming stitches. 

To make a joining, leave an end of the old thread, leave an 
end of the new thread, sew over both with the first three stitches. 

Method of finishing. To finish, take a double stitch in the 
folded edge of the hem. 



26 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



The appearance on both the right and wrong sides is of 
small slanting stitches. 

For attractive appearance of hemming there should be uni- 
form slant, space, and size of stitch. 

Vertical hemming. When a plain, folded edge of a binding 
is hemmed down over a line of gathers, the needle is inserted 
directly in line with the end of the previous stitch, instead 
of leaving a space as in the first type of hemming described. 




Fig. 28. Vertical hemming showing the position of the needle and the 
appearance of the stitch on the wrong side 

By placing the needle this way, every plait of fullness is 
evenly confined, with the stitches in line with the plaits. 

The stitch on the wrong side is perpendicular to the edge of 
the binding (Fig. 28). 



Overcasting 

Use. Overcasting is a stitch made over a raw edge to prevent 
its raveling. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the work 
horizontally along the cushion of the left forefinger. 

Point the needle toward the left shoulder for uniform slant 
on both the right and the wrong side. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



27 



In general, work from right to left, but satisfactory results 
may be obtained by working in the opposite direction. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a knot on the wrong side. 

Method of finishing. Finish 
with several stitches, one over 
the other, placing the stitches 
parallel to the edge which has 
been overcast. 

Appearance. The depth of 
the stitch depends on the 
raveling quality of the cloth. 
Usually the stitch is as shal- 




Fig. 29. Position of the needle in 
taking the overcasting stitch 



low as the quality of the cloth will allow. In general, the 

space between the stitches is two times the vertical depth 

of the stitch. There 

should be a uniform slant 

and depth of stitch with 

even spaces between the 

stitches. 

Overcasting " with the 
bias." When overcasting 
bias seams, overcast in the 
direction of the inward 
slant, as from the bot- 
tom of a skirt toward 
the top. By working in 
this direction, the edge is more easily and quickly finished 
without fraying the ends of the warp threads. 

Catchstitch, or Herringbone Stitch 

Use. A stitch used to hold a seam or hem flat against the 
garment and to prevent the raveling of the raw edge ; used 
especially on outing flannel and flannel seams and hems. 




Fig. 30. Position of cloth, hand, and needle 
for the overcasting stitch 



28 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the work 
across the left forefinger with the hand parallel with the body. 
With the thread above the needle to avoid the loop of the 
blanket stitch, point the needle toward the body and take a 
short stitch, the required distance from the raw edge, which 
may be used as the center axis of the line of stitches. 

















































































































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Fig. 31. Catchstitch, or 
herringbone stitch 



Fig. 32. Catchstitch. Turning a 



corner 



Diagonally across the center axis take another stitch, and 
continue alternating across the center axis. 

Keep the horizontal and vertical spaces between the stitches 
even or the appearance of the line will be unsatisfactory. 

The progress of the stitch is away from the body. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a knot concealed. 

Method of finishing. Finish with a double stitch on the side 
where there is more than one thickness, so that the double 
stitch will not show on the right side. 



STITCHES USED IN PLAIN SEWING 



29 



Appearance of the stitch. On the wrong side there is the 
appearance of diagonal threads crossing each other at the ends. 
The slant of these threads should be uniform. 

Another position of the work. The work may be held along 
the cushion of the left forefinger. Point the needle toward the 
left in taking the stitch. 

The progress of the stitch is from left to right. 

The raw edge is not always used as the center axis of the 
stitches but as a guide, beside which one row of stitches is placed. 

Buttonhole Stitch 

Use. The buttonhole stitch is a stitch with a heavy purl used 
to finish the raw edges of a buttonhole. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Hold the raw edge 
to be covered along the upper part of the cushion of the left 
forefinger. In taking the stitch, 
point the needle directly toward 
the body; push the needle partly 
through the cloth and brace it 
firmly with the left thumb and 
forefinger. With the right hand 
take the threads at the eye of the 
needle, carry them around under 
the point of the needle in the 
direction in which the stitches are being made; drop the loop 
at the back of the needle. Push the needle through and draw 
up the thread in line with the stitch and on a plane with 
the cloth. 

The progress of the stitch for a right-handed person is 
from right to left, and for a left-handed person in the opposite 
direction. 

Method of beginning. Begin with running stitches, which 
will be covered later. Never use a knot. 




Fig. 33. Buttonhole stitch with 
the needle in position 



3Q 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Avoid a joining. If one is unavoidable, leave an end of the 
old thread ; with the new thread take the first stitch up through 
the purl of the last stitch made. Hold the two thread ends 
along the raw edge and continue with the buttonhole stitch, 
covering the ends with at least two stitches. 

Method of finishing. Finish with a double stitch on the 
wrong side. 

Appearance of the stitch. The stitches should be exactly 
perpendicular to the edge, of an even depth, and with the space 
of one thread between. The purl should be tight, even, and 
exactly on the edge. 

Suggestion. In tightening the purl, place the left thumb nail 
on the lower part of the stitch to avoid strain on the cloth. 



CHAPTER III 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



Blanket Stitch 




Fig. 34. The inclosed blanket 

stitch. The dotted line represents 

the stamped line 



The blanket stitch is an ornamental stitch used to decorate or 
finish a raw edge. The directions for the stitch may be given 
under two headings. The blanket stitch used in embroidery, 
frequently called " buttonholing," 
is blanket stitching made a given 
distance from the edge. The 
cloth is then cut to the purl of 
the blanket stitch. Because this 
is really not made on the edge, 
it may be called "the inclosed 
blanket stitch." 

When the raw edge of a 
blanket, holder pad, or mat is 
to be finished, the stitch is made 

directly over the edge. This may be called " blanket stitch 
on the edge" from the method used in making the stitch. 

Purl. The crossing, or twisting and crossing, of the threads 
on the edge of the blanket stitch and buttonhole stitch is called 
the purl of the stitch. 

The inclosed blanket stitch. This stitch is made a conven- 
ient distance in from the edge. These stitches are usually 
placed close together to make a firm, even edge when the cloth 
is cut away. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. With the right 
side of the cloth up and the raw edge toward the body, hold 

31 



32 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




the line to be blanket-stitched along the cushion of the left 
forefinger, beginning at the left-hand end of the line. 

Method of beginning. Begin with several running stitches 
toward the left along the line to be covered, ending at the 
point for the purl of the first blanket stitch. 

Hold the thread down under the left thumb to form a loop. 
Insert the needle above the line at a point the required 
depth of the blanket stitch and out at the purl line. 

Draw up the loose thread, lift 
the thumb, and tighten the purl. 
The progress of the stitch is 
from left to right. 

Joining. With the old thread 
take two or three running stitches 
toward the right near the purl line. 
With the new thread take two or 
three running stitches near the 
purl line, toward the left. Bring 
the needle to. the right side, between the last two blanket 
stitches, exactly on the purl line. 

Method of finishing. To finish, place the needle at the right 
of the last stitch to complete the purl, and put the needle 
through to the wrong side. Slip the needle along under the 
completed stitches to hold the end securely. 

Blanket stitch on the edge is used to finish raw edges. 
There is usually a short space between the stitches. A varia- 
tion in the depth of the stitches frequently adds to the decorative 
effect (see Fig. 36). 

Position of material, hands, and needle. Work on the right 
side of the material. Hold the raw edge along the upper part 
of the cushion of the left forefinger, with the bulk of the gar- 
ment over the palm of the hand. Insert the needle the required 
depth from the raw edge. Point the needle toward the body. 



The blanket stitch on 
the edge 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



33 



Leave a half-inch end of thread after taking the first stitch. 

Hold this end between the middle and forefinger of the left 
hand. 

Insert the needle under the thread end, pointing it toward 
the left. This makes the purl of the first stitch and places it 
on the edge. 

Hold the thread down under the left thumb to form a loop. 

Insert the needle for the second stitch, the required distance 
from the first. In taking the second stitch, place the needle 
back of the thread end and hold it in place along the raw edge. 




Fig. 36. Variations of blanket stitch made by changing the space between 
stitches and the length of stitches 

Draw up the thread in a straight line toward the raw edge. 

Raise the left thumb and tighten the purl on the edge. 

The progress of the stitch is from the left toward the right. 

Method of finishing. To finish, take one or two stitches 
around the purl of the last blanket stitch and slip the needle 
along the edge under the last few stitches. 



Hemstitching 

Use. Hemstitching is used to ornament and hold securely 
hems, tucks, etc., when they are so placed that a number of 
threads can be drawn for the ornamental stitches. 

There are many ways of hemstitching, all of which give 
attractive results. 

Two methods will illustrate the possibilities. Method I is 
perhaps the simplest and Method II the quickest. 



34 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Method I 

Preparation. Draw the required number of threads. 
Baste the turned-in edge of the hem exactly in line with the 
edge of the space from which the threads have been drawn. 
The progress of the work is from left to right. 

Position of the work, 



■••""" 




Fig. 37. Hemstitching. Method I, 
showing the first stitch 



hands, and needle. Hold the 
work along the cushion of 
the left forefinger, the wrong 
side up, with the outer edge 
of the hem toward the palm. 
Decide on the number of 
threads to be taken up in 
each group. 

Method of beginning. On heavy material, begin with a knot 
concealed or a double stitch in the fold of the hem. 

Pointing the needle toward the left as for a running stitch, 
pick up the threads of the first 
group on the needle. 

Pull the thread down close 
to the edge of the open space. 
Take a shallow overhanding 
stitch in the fold of the hem 
at the right of the first group. 
Continue toward the right. 
After the first few groups it 
should not be necessary to count the number of threads in 
each group. 

Method of finishing. Finish with a double stitch in the fold 
of the hem. 




Fig. 38. Hemstitching. Method I, 
showing the second stitch 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



35 



Method II 



Preparation. Same as in Method I. 

The progress is toward the body. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. Place the hem 
across the cushion of the left forefinger, the outside fold 
toward the left, and the right side up. Pointing the needle 
toward the body, take up the required num- 
ber of threads for the first group. 

Draw the thread through. 

With a second stitch take up the same 
threads and insert the needle in the fold of 
the hem exactly in line with the space be- 
tween the first and second groups. Continue. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a knot 
concealed or a double stitch in the fold of 
the hem. 

Method of finishing. Finish with a double 
stitch on the wrong side in the fold of the hem. 

Good hemstitching requires a close, even 
tension of thread ; groups of uniform size ; 
no loose threads between the groups ; and a 
good proportion between the open space and size of groups. 

Number of threads. For single hemstitching, draw four 
threads and take up four threads in each group. This will be 
satisfactory for many materials, but not in all cases. The 
tendency is to draw too many threads. 

Double hemstitching, as the name suggests, is an open space 
with a line of hemstitching on both sides. 

The kinds of double hemstitching are double-bar and rickrack. 

Number of threads. For double hemstitching, draw at least 
two threads more than for single hemstitching. Take up one 
or two extra threads in each group. 




Fig. 39. Hemstitch- 
ing. Method II 



36 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Double-bar. Hemstitch, according to directions, the hem side 
of the open space. 

On the other side hemstitch in the same way, taking up the 
corresponding groups. 

Take a shallow stitch in the edge of the material between 
the groups. 

Rickrack. Draw the required number of threads as for the 
double-bar. Hemstitch along the hem side of the open space. 





Fig. 40. Double hemstitching. The 
right side of the double-bar 






Fig. 41. Double hemstitching. The 
right side of the rickrack 



On the other side of the open space take one half of group 
one with the first stitch. 

Take a shallow stitch in the edge of the material at the right 
of the first half group. 

With the next stitch take the other half of group one and 
half of group two. 

Each stitch after the first is made up of the second half of 
one group and the first half of the next succeeding group. 

Take a shallow overhanding stitch in the material at the 
right of each group. 



Featherstitching 

Featherstitching is a series of blanket stitches arranged in 
such a way that all stitches are a given distance from a center 
axis and their slant is uniform throughout. 

All stitches at the right of the center axis are blanket stitches 
made from left to right. 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



37 




All stitches at the left of the center axis are blanket stitches 
made from right to left with the thread thrown toward the left. 

These blanket stitches may be parallel to 
the center axis or they may be diagonal to it. 
The number of stitches on each side of 
the center axis may vary. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. 
Hold the work across the cushion of the 
left forefinger. 

Point the needle toward the body. 
Hold the thread down under the thumb 
and make a blanket stitch. 

To make a blanket stitch from right to 
left, place the thread in a loop toward the 
left. Hold the thread under the thumb. Insert the needle, 
letting the point pass over the thread loop. In continuing the 
blanket stitches, alternate the direction of the stitches. 



FiG.42. Single feather- 
stitching, showing the 
position of the needle 
and thread for the 
blanket stitch made 
from right to left 







































































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Fig. 43. a, single featherstitching, with the blanket stitches taken on a line 
with the threads of the cloth ; 6, double featherstitching, taken on a line with 
the threads of the cloth ; c, d, and e are taken with stitches diagonal to the 

threads of the cloth 



33 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



The progress of the work is toward the body. 
Method of beginning. Begin with a knot or double stitch on 
the wrong side. 

Method of finishing. Finish by completing the purl of the 
last stitch, and on the wrong side a double stitch. 

Cotton Aida canvas and colored silkateen 
are excellent materials to use for the first 
featherstitching. 

Chain Stitch 

Use. The chain stitch is a variation of the 
blanket stitch used for decoration. 

Position of work, hands, and needle. Hold 
the work across the cushion of the left fore- 
finger. 

The progress of the stitch is toward the body. 
Bring the needle through to the right side. 
Hold the thread down under the left thumb 
to form a loop as in the blanket stitch. 

Insert the needle at the right of the place 
from which the thread comes from the cloth. 
Pointing the needle toward the body, take a short stitch. 
Continue in this manner, always inserting the needle inside 
the loop of the last stitch. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a knot on the wrong side 
or with a double stitch. 

Method of finishing. To finish, put the needle through to 
the wrong side just below the last loop, and finish with a double 
stitch on the wrong side. 

Variations. Change the slant of the needle, keeping the 
slant uniform throughout or alternating it as in the zigzag 
chain. Other variations are made by changing the position 
of the needle in relation to the loop. 




Fig. 44. Chain 
stitch 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



39 



Outline Stitch 




Fig. 45. Kensington 
outline stitch 



Use. As the name suggests, the stitch is 
used for decorative outlining. 

There are two kinds of outline stitch, 
Kensington and crewel. 

Kensington outline is the one most often 
used. 

Position of the work, hands, and needle. 
Hold the work across the cushion of the left 
forefinger, and point the needle slightly 
toward the left. 

Parallel with this and one space above it 
take the second stitch. Continue. 

The progress of the stitch is away from 
the body, following the stamped line. 
Method of beginning. Begin with running 
stitches to be covered by the first Kensing- 
ton stitches. 

The appearance on the right side is of a 
series of regular overlapping stitches. 

On the wrong side there is a series of short 
slanting stitches with a small space between. 
In many cases better results are obtained 
by pointing the needle directly toward the 
body when taking the stitch. If no space is 
left between the stitches, the result is more 
attractive. This method makes a stitch that 
is the reverse of backstitch ing. In taking 




the Kensington stitch the thread falls natu- 



Fig. 46. Kensing- 
ton outline stitch, 
showing the needle 
pointing toward the 
body in taking the 
stitch 



rally at the right of the needle. 

Crewel outline stitch. This is made like the Kensington stitch 
but with the thread at the left of the needle instead of the right. 



4Q 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Embroidery Knots 

Use. Embroidery knots are used for ornamentation, either 
with other embroidery stitches or alone. There are several 
ways of making these knots. The material 
out of which they are made and the effect 
desired will determine the method. 



Embroidery Knot I 

Position of work, hands, and needle. Hold 
the work across the cushion of the left fore- 
finger and point the needle toward the body. 
Take a small backstitch, leaving the needle 
halfway through the cloth. 

Take the cloth end of the thread and wind 
it twice around the needle. 

Hold the coil firmly under the left thumb 
and draw the needle through to complete the stitch. 

Insert the needle at the back end of the backstitch and bring 
it out at the point where the next knot is to be placed. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a double stitch on the 
wrong side, and draw the needle through to the right side at 
the place for the embroidery knot. 




Fig. 47. Embroidery 
Knot I 



Embroidery Knot II 

Position of work, hands, and needle. Hold the cloth across 
the left forefinger. 

Place the thread to the left and hold it with the left thumb. 

Loop the thread toward the right and away from the body, 
crossing the under thread at the left of the point from which it 
comes from the cloth. 

Hold the loop firmly. 



ORNAMENTAL STITCHES 



41 



Insert the needle a few threads back of a (Fig. 48), ending 
the stitch at a. Pass the needle through the loop. 
Draw the thread out straight from the cloth. 
Insert the needle again at a and take a stitch forward to 
the place for the next knot. 

The same appearance can be obtained by 
making a buttonhole stitch and drawing it 
up to form a knot. 

Method of beginning. Begin with a double 
stitch on the wrong side and draw the needle 
through to the right side in position for the 
first knot. 




FlG. 48. Embroidery 
Knot II 



Embroidery Knot III {French Knot) 

Position of the cloth, hands, and needle. 

Lay the cloth on the table. Point the needle 
toward the left, holding it in place between 
the right thumb and forefinger, beside but at the back of the 
place from which the thread comes from the cloth. 

Wind the thread over and around the needle three times. 

Place the right forefinger over the coil of threads on the needle. 

Draw the needle back until the coil 
is near the point of the needle. 

Insert the needle a short distance 
to the left. 

Draw the needle through to the 
wrong side, gradually releasing the 
coil which forms the knot. 

Method of beginning. Begin with 
a double stitch on the wrong side and bring the needle to 
the right side at the place indicated for the knot. 

The size of the knot can be increased by using a coarser 
thread, or by winding the thread more times around the needle. 




wmmMh„^.M. 



Fig. 49. Embroidery Knot III, 
or French Knot 



42 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




Fig. 50. Cross-stitches 
made in a vertical line 



Cross-stitch 

Use. Cross-stitch is a decorative stitch usually made in 
colors for the purpose of decoration. If the cloth is coarse the 
threads can be counted and even cross-stitches made without 
difficulty. Unless the material is sufficiently 
coarse to avoid eyestrain, Penelope or a 
similar cross-stitch canvas should be used 
as a guide for the stitches. 

Use of cross-stitch canvas. Determine 
the place on the cloth where the design is 
to be worked. Crease through the center 
of this place, in both directions, creasing 
exactly with a warp and a woof thread. 
Cut a rectangular piece of canvas, at 
least an inch larger than the design. 
Find the center of the canvas. 

Place the center of the piece of canvas exactly over the 
point where the warp and woof thread creases intersect. 

Place the threads of the canvas 
exactly in line with the creases. 
Baste along both creases. 

If the design is large, several 
lines of bastings should be made, 
matching threads of canvas and 
warp and woof threads of cloth 
with each line. Baste around the 
outside edge of the canvas. It 
is better to begin as near the 

center of the design as possible and work toward the outer edges. 
When the design is finished, draw out the threads of the canvas. 
Directions for the stitch. Never use knots. Leave an end 
of thread and hold it in line with the first cross-stitches. 







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Cross-stitches made in a 
horizontal line 



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46 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

To make the stitch, draw the needle through to the right 
side in the lower right-hand corner of the square for the stitch ; 
diagonally across on the right side, put the needle down through 
the upper left-hand corner. Bring the needle up through the 
lower left-hand corner, across, and down through at the upper 
right-hand corner. Bring the needle up through at the lower 
right-hand corner of the square for the next stitch. Continue. 

Fasten the thread on the wrong side, by slipping the needle 
under several completed stitches. The upper stroke of the stitch 
should slant in the same direction throughout the design. 



CHAPTER IV 

PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 

The processes of construction are those processes by which 
pieces of cloth are made into a garment. 

Seams 

A seam is a joining of two pieces of cloth in the construction 
of a garment. 

There are several kinds of seams used in plain sewing. 
Choose the one that is best suited to the material and the one 
most satisfactory for the part of the garment where it is used. 

Pinning a seam. It usually saves much time and avoids mis- 
takes to pin the entire length of the seam before basting. 
Place the pins perpendicular to the edge, through the two 
thicknesses. This holds both pieces evenly and makes it 
possible to baste before removing the pins. 

Basting a seam. Time is saved by basting where- it is 
needed. Place the basting beside the line that is to be stitched, 
not on it. Never stitch on a line of basting. This wastes much 
time when the basting is removed. 

The plain seam. Place the two right sides of the garment 
together. *Pin and baste. A quarter of an inch from the edge, 
place a line of stitches to hold the seam permanently. Back- 
stitch, half backstitch, combination stitch, running, or a line of 
machine stitching may be used. The strain on the seam and 
the quality of the cloth determine the choice of stitch. 

Finish. Cut the frayed or uneven edges from the seam and 
overcast the raw edges. If the seam is to be pressed open 

47 



4 8 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




when the garment is laundered, overcast the two edges sepa- 
rately ; if not, overcast the two edges together. 

Overhanded seam. Place the two right sides together ; place 
the two folded edges or two finished edges together ; pin, baste, 
and overhand (p. 22). 

French seam. Place the two wrong sides of the garment 
together, pin, and baste. Stitch the width of the presser foot 
from the edge. Remove basting. Cut the seam down to one 

half the width of 
the finished seam. 
Crease along the 
\«3 b line of stitching on 
the wrong side of 
the garment. 

Fold the right 
sides together and 
crease along the 
line of stitching. 
Baste and stitch the required distance from the edge. 
In a well-made French seam the line of the first stitching 
is exactly on the edge of the finished seam. The seam is of an 
even width. No threads show along the line of the seam on 
the right side. This means careful creasing. Hand stitches 
may be used instead of machine stitching. Choose the stitch 
best suited to the type of material used and to the strain which 
comes on the seam when the garment is worn. 

Felled seam. These are of two kinds : the flat fell, finished 
either on the right or on the wrong side ; and the standing, or 
French, fell, which resembles the French seam in appearance. 
Flat fell on the zvrong side. Place the two right sides 
of the garment together, pin, and baste. 

Stitch the width of the finished seam plus one turn from 
the edge. 



Fig. 55. A French seam : a, shows the place of the 
inclosed seam ; b, the finished seam 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



49 



a > 

b '— 



^fe 




Fig. 56. Flat fell in the process of making : a is the 

edge of the wide side, which is folded down over b 

after the first line of stitching is completed 



Remove basting to allow for proper creasing of the seam. 
Open the two parts of the seam and trim one side to a 
little less than the width of the finished seam. 

Crease care- 
fully along the 
line of stitching 
on the right side 
of the garment. 

Fold the wide 
side down over 
the narrow side, 
making an even 
crease. 
Baste the turned-in edge of the seam to the garment as a hem. 
Join the folded edge to the garment with hemming or 
machine stitching. 
Remove basting. 

If the garment is not a fitted garment with traced seam lines, 
place one edge of the seam the width of one turn below the 
other. By this 
method time is 
saved in cutting 
down one edge. 
Flat fell on 
the right side. 
Reverse the pre- 
vious directions by 
placing the two 
wrong sides of the 
garment together. 

Cut, crease, fold, and baste as before. 
Finish with a line of machine stitching along the folded 
edge. 




Fig. 57. 



Flat fell on the wrong side, made with 
hand stitches 




50 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

French^ or standing, fell. Place the two right sides together, 
with one edge the width of the finished seam plus one turn 
below the other. 

Pin and baste. 

Fold the wide side with two turns down over the narrow side. 

Baste. 

Stitch near the fold of the turned-in edge through the four 
thicknesses of seam, thus completing the seam with one stitching. 

Use of seams. 

1 

»^iii W t f» W|h>w<twwinw»»wiw»«mw«w»iti«Mim.u.M K s>»^r1\..^.s»^ M(( ,« l > > v;nmu^ l MW>f l »Mm«^ * * 1C pld.111 oCdlll 

H^€„ „ „ _:- _ _ „ „ %A can be used on 

any part of the 



&& ////;■ . %„, '"i. , /'<■• . ■ is -^Il| garment where 

W^smisA^kii^iiiM: mkk^iiilMJl^Mi^^^^ j^ e standing 

Fig. 58. A French fell in the process of making: : j 

.i -j -j ,-,-r^j -i edsres are not 

# represents the wide side, which is folded with two ° 

turns down over b tOO bulky and 

where the unfin- 
ished edges are not objectionable. It is used especially on 
heavy materials. It may be used on drawers, petticoats, etc. 

Overhanded scam. The overhanded seam can be used only 
with finished and folded ed'ges. 

French seam. The French seam is a double seam and gives 
a nicer finish than the plain. It has many uses where the bulk 
of the standing edge is not objectionable. It should not be 
used on very heavy material where a wide seam is necessary. 
It is satisfactory for the finish of curved lines. It may be used 
on slips, drawers, nightgowns, waists, skirts, etc. 

Flat fell on the right side. The flat fell on the wrong side 
finished by hand when sufficiently narrow is a very dainty and 
attractive seam. It is not satisfactory on a deep curve. It is 
used on drawers, slips, etc. that are finished by hand. 

When hemmed down by machine the flat fell has a more 
tailored effect. On underwear, the line of stitching on the 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 51 

right side becomes discolored unless very carefully laundered. In 
many places where it can be suitably used, the flat fell on the 
right side is a better seam to use and is more easily made. It is 
attractive for petticoats, pajamas, tailored shirt waists, and skirts. 

French fell. The French fell is seldom used in home sewing 
except for joining ruffles, etc. to garments. 

Flannel seams. Flannel does not crease easily, therefore 
when it is used for undergarments it is necessary to finish the 

seams according to ^ : — — 

the needs of the r VWiif ^ t! ^^> x ^^-^ ^ --- - ^— _ 

material. Outing "\- 

flannel, although \ \. , '/'/', 

made of cotton, m ^ ;; ■ ■] ■-. -&& % 

is usually finished ^^ — ^ *"-* *~ A - 

. 2 , A , Fig. kq. French fell completed 

with the same type J r 

of seam as flannel. The following are some of the most 

common plain and decorative finishes for flannel seams : 

1 . The plain seam with overcast edges may be used, but with 
heavy material a flatter finish is less bulky and more attractive. 

2. Stitch or backstitch the seam on the wrong side of the 
garment at least one-fourth inch wide. 

Cut the seam an even width and remove all ravelings. 

Turn the seam toward the back of the garment. 

Cut down the under part of the seam at least one sixteenth 
of an inch to prevent its showing beyond the upper edge when 
the seam is finished. 

Baste the seam flat to the garment. 

Catchstitch the edge of the seam to the garment, without 
taking the stitches through to the right side. 

3. Stitch or backstitch the seam on the wrong side of the 
garment at least one-fourth inch wide. 

Cut the seam an even width and remove all ravelings. 
Press the two parts of the seam open. 



52 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Overcast the two raw edges. 

Hold the seam flat with a line of catchstitches along the 
center of the seam. 

4. Prepare the seam as in No. 3. 

Press the seam open and baste flat to the garment. 
Catchstitch the two raw edges of the seam to the garment. 

5. Prepare the seam as in No. 3. 
Press the seam open on the wrong side. 
Overcast the two raw edges. 

Baste the seam open and hold in place with a line of feather- 
stitching on the right side. 

6. Make a flat fell on the wrong side, one-fourth inch wide. 
Hem down by hand. 

Hold the seam flat and decorate it by a line of feather- 
stitching on the right side. 

Use of flannel seams. Use 1 and 2 on light-weight materials 
for petticoats, etc. Use 3 and 4 on heavy material. Use 5 and 
6 on infants' gertrudes and garments where a flat seam and 
decoration are desired. 

Materials for flannel seams. On outing flannel, use thread 
for stitching, overcasting, and catchstitching ; use silkateen for 
featherstitching. 

On flannel, use sewing silk for stitching, overcasting, and 
catchstitching ; use hard-twisted embroidery silk or knitting silk 
for featherstitching. 

Hems 

A hem is an edge finish made with two turns of the material. 
The first, or narrow turn, is wide enough to inclose the raw 
edge. The width of the first turn is determined by the quality 
of the material and the method used for joining the hem. 

Creasing of hems. Even measuring and creasing of hems is 
the first important step toward a well-made hem. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 53 

For plain hems, the narrow turn is creased first. This may 
be done in several ways. 

Creasing on the table. Place the garment on the table, wrong 
side up, with the raw edge away from the worker and the 
garment over the edge of the table in the lap. 

With the right thumb and forefinger make a narrow turn to 
the wrong side of the garment. 

Hold in place. 

A short distance to the left make a corresponding turn with 
the left thumb and forefinger. 

Hold in place. 

Still holding the right-hand end firmly under the right fingers, 
crease with the right thumb nail the space from left to right. 

Continue toward the left. 

The second turn should be turned, measured, and creased in 
the same way. 

Baste to hold in place. 

For large garments. If the garment is too bulky to make 
this method convenient, place it on the table with the raw edge 
toward the body. This position is less convenient for basting 
the hem. 

Creasing in the hands. Narrow hems, or the first turn of 
wider hems, may be creased in the hands. Hold the garment 
with the wrong side up and the raw edge diagonally across 
the inside of the first two fingeis of the left hand. The sur- 
face of these two fingers takes the place of the table, and 
the turning and creasing are done according to the directions 
already given. 

Creasing by side-plaiting. On thin or loosely woven cloth a 
turn that is creased on the table may be badly stretched. To 
avoid this result, hold the raw edge up with the wrong side 
toward the worker. Make the first turn toward the wrong side 
with the right thumb and forefinger. Hold firmly. 



54 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



A short distance towards the left make a corresponding turn 
with the left thumb and forefinger. 

Hold firmly in place. 

Crease between the two hands by folding the turned-in edge 
into small plaits, and pinching them in place with the right 
thumb and forefinger. 

Hems on material which does not crease. When turning 
a hem on material which will not crease, as thin cheesecloth, 




Fig. 60. Position of hands and cloth for creasing a hem in the hands 

outing flannel, etc., time is saved and results are much more 
satisfactory if the first turn of the hem is basted before 
attempting to make the second turn. 

With heavy material of this type three lines of basting are 
necessary for satisfactory results : one, to hold the fold of the 
first turn ; a second, to hold the fold of the second turn ; a 
third, to hold the first turn in place for hemming. 

A hem on an outward curve. When a hem is turned on 
a curve of this type there is fullness along the line of the 
first turn. 

Confine this fullness by plaits or gathers. If plaits are used, 
they must be small. A plait extending the width of the hem 
makes a point at the lower edge. On light-weight material 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



55 



with a small amount of fullness use gathers. Crease both turns 
of the hem. Gather through the fold of the upper edge. Pin, 
baste, and press before hemming. 

Gathering and Placing of Gathers 

The stitch used most often for gathering is the running 
stitch. The size of the stitch depends on the quality of the 
cloth and the amount of fullness to be confined in a given 




Fig. 6i. A line of gathering. The center marked by a notch on the edge 
and a cross-stitch near the edge 



space. Fine material and a small amount of fullness require 
fine running stitches. On the other hand, heavy cloth and 
much fullness require longer stitches. 

The stitch and space may be of equal length, or the space 
may be longer than the stitch (see p. 19). 

For gathering, start with a knot and a backstitch. The 
double stitch will prevent the knot from pulling through when 
the gathers are drawn up. 

The center of the edge to be gathered should be marked with 
a small notch on the edge or a cross-stitch with colored thread. 

In some cases a double gathering thread may be necessary, 
but in general a single thread is much better, as a single thread 
is less likely to knot. 



56 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Use a size of thread that is strong enough to avoid the 
possibility of breaking with the strain of adjusting the gathers. 
Use a thread a little longer than the space where the gathers 
are to be confined. 

If this space is too long for the usual length of thread, 
divide the edge to be gathered into halves, quarters, or as many 
sections as is necessary. 

Place small notches or cross-stitches at the points of division. 
Gather each section with a separate thread. 
Stroking of gathers. Draw up the gathers into a close mass. 

Place a common pin 
a) in a vertical position 
at the end of the 
line of gathering, 
close to the last 
stitch. 

Wind the thread 
across the pin sev- 
eral times (Fig. 62). 
With the right side 
up, begin at the left-hand end of the line of gathers. 

Hold the work between the left thumb and forefinger, keep- 
ing the thumb below the gathering thread (Fig. 63). 

Place the eye of the needle under the gathering thread 
(Fig. 63). 

Press the needle toward the thumb, marking with the needle 
the crease of a little plait. 

Pinch the plait tightly between the left thumb and forefinger. 
Continue in this way, creasing in every space. 
Substitutes for stroking. In many cases stroking requires too 
much time, and shorter methods of adjusting gathers are neces- 
sary. These give less attractive results, but are satisfactory for 
many garments. 




Fig. 62. The gathering thread drawn up and 
fastened around a pin 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



57 



I. Place a second row of gathering parallel to the first 
line with a space of one-fourth inch between the two rows. 




Fig. 63. Stroking of gathers 



Draw up the two threads evenly, until the gathers are in a 
close mass that can be arranged easily and quickly. 




Fig. 64. Double gathering, a substitute for stroking 

Wind the thread around a pin placed close to the last stitch 
and at right angles to the line of gathering (Fig. 64). 

Starting at the knot end of the line of gathering hold the 
upper edge of the material between the left thumb and fore- 
finger. With the right hand pull the gathers down smoothly. 



58 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Little plaits between the two rows of gathers will be made. 
Pinch these plaits firmly between the left thumb and forefinger. 

Continue pulling the gathers and pinching the plaits through- 
out the entire length. 

2. In thin, stiff material where there are short lengths to be 
gathered, many stitches can be taken on the needle at once. 




Fig. 65. Shirring 



Before drawing the needle through, pinch the mass of 
material close together. 

Pull the gathers into place and press the little plaits thus 
formed between the left thumb and forefinger. 

Gauging. If a very even arrangement of the tiny plaits 
formed by the gathers is necessary, the second row of gathers 
must be placed very carefully with stitch under stitch and 
space under space. This is called gauging or gauged gathering 
(Fig. 64). 

Shirring is made by placing several rows of gatherings in 
parallel lines (Fig. 65). 

Joining a gathered edge to a plain edge. The line of stitches 
used to join the gathered to the plain edge should be placed 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



59 



exactly on the line of gathering, otherwise the time spent in 
the careful arrangement of the gathers will be wasted. 




Fig. 66. Joining a gathered edge to a plain edge 

Bias Strips for Bindings and Facings 

Use of the bias. The bias is used most often for bindings, 
facings, and ruffles. The ends of the warp and the woof 
threads along the sides of a bias strip can be stretched apart 



Fig. 67. Bias strips placed in a line before joining 

or pressed closely together. For this reason a bias strip is used 
most often to finish a curved edge. 

To seam bias strips together. The piecing of true bias 
strips should be with two edges cut with the woof or with two 
edges cut with the warp threads. 

Cut the strips the required width. Place the two right sides 
together, strips at right angles to each other, woof or warp 
edges together, and the sides of the strips meeting a seam's 
width down from the edge (see Fig. 68). 



6o 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




To join bias strips with a French seam, place the two wrong 
sides together, strips at right angles to each other, warp or 
woof edges together, and the sides intersecting the width of 
two seams from the edge. 

Stitch one seam's width from the edge as for a plain seam. 

Turn, crease, and 
baste. 

Finish the second 
line of the French seam. 
The sides should be to- 
gether at the line of the 
second seam. 

To piece garment bias 
strips. Select one strip with an end with the warp or woof 
threads to prevent the stretching of the seam. Place the wrong 
side of this strip against the right side of the second strip. Cut 
the end of the second strip to match the first. Place the two 
right sides together, with 
the ends even and the sides 
intersecting a seam's width 
down from the end. Seam. 
The strips in this case will 
not be at right angles to 
each other. 



Fig. 68. Two bias strips joined with a plain seam 



Bindings 




Fig. 69. Two bias strips placed together 
for a French seam, ab is the line of the 
first stitchinsr and cd the line of the second 



A binding is a strip of 
cloth used as an edge 
finish, usually extending 

as a fold beyond the edge of the garment, with the second 
line of stitches directly over the first. 

When a binding is used to hold the gathered part of the 
garment in place it is sometimes called a band. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 6l 

If there is any strain on the binding, as a skirt binding at 
the waist, a collar band or a cuff, the length of the binding 
should be cut with the warp threads. 

If there is no strain on the binding, it may be cut with the 
woof threads or on the bias. 

A binding joined to the garment by hand. Place the right 
side of the binding against the right side of the garment. Pin, 
baste, and backstitch. Crease the binding well along the right 
side of the seam. 

Fold the binding with two turns toward the wrong side. 

Pin the ends, centers, and as many points between as is 
necessary. 

Baste and hem. 

The underneath line of backstitches should be covered by 
the fold of the hem. No hemming stitches should show on 
the right side. 

For the method of joining a binding to a gathered edge by 
hand see page 26. 

A binding joined to the garment by machine. Place the right 
side of the binding against the wrong side of the garment. 

Pin, baste, stitch, and crease. 

Fold the binding with two turns to the right side. 

Pin, baste, and stitch along the folded edge. 

Caution. The first stitching should be covered entirely by 
the fold of the binding. The second stitching should be directly 
beside the first but on the garment side. 

To prevent the reaming, or twisting, of a binding, notch at 
the center on the two sides before joining to the garment. In 
making the second turn of the binding, pin the ends and center 
notches together. Pin at intervals to make sure that the ends 
of corresponding woof threads match on the finished binding. 

The split binding. This is not an edge finish, but is a 
strip joining two parts of a garment ; a belt joining the bib 



62 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

to the body part of an apron, strip joining ruffle to lower edge 
of French drawers, etc. are examples. 

Directions. Cut two strips of cloth the required length, with 
seam allowances at sides and ends. The width of each strip 
should be the finished width plus two seams. 

If handmade, place the right side of the smaller part of the 
garment against the right side of one strip. 

Pin and baste. 

Place the right side of the other part of the garment against 
the right side of the same strip. 

Pin and baste. 

Place the right side of the second strip against the wrong 
side of the smaller part of the garment, the edge along the 
line of the first seam. 

Baste and backstitch through the three thicknesses. 

The small part of the garment is now between the two strips. 
From this point the construction is that of a handmade binding. 

Backstitch the second seam. 

Crease and baste both seams along the creased line. 

Make a narrow turn along the free edge of the binding. 

Pin, baste, and hem to the garment. 

Split binding by machine. Reverse the directions of split bind- 
ing by hand, and follow directions for machine-made binding. 

Facings 

A facing is a strip of cloth used as an edge finish. It ex- 
tends up on the garment its full width from the first stitching 
on the edge. 

Facings may be cut with the woof or warp threads, on the 
bias, or they may be fitted. 

A fitted facing. This is one in which both the warp and 
woof threads of the facing match the corresponding threads of 
the garment. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 63 

Methods of Joining a Facing to a Garment 

A facing on the wrong side. Place the right side of the 
facing against the right side of the garment, edges together. . 

Pin and baste. 

Stitch or backstitch a seam's width from the edge. 

Crease the facing to the wrong side, creasing carefully on 
the outside of the facing along the line of the stitching. 

Baste or pin along the line of the first stitching to hold the 
crease and to prevent reaming. 

Make a narrow turn along the other edge of the facing. 

Baste and join the edge to the garment by hand hemming 
or machine stitching. 

A facing joined to the right side. Place the right side of the 
facing against the wrong side of the garment, edges together. 

Baste and stitch a seam's width from the edge. 

Crease carefully along the line of stitching when folding the 
facing to the right side. 

Baste along the creased line. 

Make a narrow turn along the upper edge of the facing. 

Pin, baste, and stitch along the turned-in edge. 

Facing a curved edge. For the facing, use a true bias strip 
of the required width and length. 

Facing an inward curve. Place the edges of the facing and 
o f the garment together. 

Pin the inside edge of the facing to the garment to see how 
much is necessary for a smooth facing. 

Hold in the fullness on the outer edge of the facing, pin, and 
baste. Continue the steps as in the preceding directions. 

If too much fullness for a smooth facing is required by this 
method, substitute a fitted facing. 

Facing an outward curve. When placing it against the 
garment, stretch the outer edge of the facing slightly. To 



64 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

finish the inside edge of the facing, distribute the extra 
fullness evenly. 

Pin, gather if necessary, and baste in preparation for the 
stitching. 

False hem. This name is frequently applied to a facing 
finished on the wrong side of the garment. 

Split hem. This is a name frequently applied to a facing 
which covers the joining of a ruffle to the garment. 

Directions. Cut the facing the required width. 

Prepare the ruffle and adjust the gathers. 

Place the right side of the ruffle to the right side of the 
garment. 

Pin and baste. 

Place the right side of the facing against the wrong side of 
the ruffle. 

Baste and stitch a seam's width from the edge. 

The ruffle is now joined to the garment and is between the 
garment and the facing. From this point the directions are 
for the facing on the wrong side. 

Tucks 

A tuck is a fold made and sewed in a garment for ornament 
or to provide material for lengthening the garment if necessary. 

Tuck allowances. Each tuck requires an allowance of cloth 
two times its finished width. 

Creasing for the first tuck. Begin with the lowest tuck of 
the group. 

Measure up from the lower edge of the hem, the width of 
the hem, plus the space between the edge of the tuck and 
the stitching of the hem, plus two times the width of the 
finished tuck. 

Make a crease, being sure that this crease is in line with a 
thread of the cloth. This crease is the edge of the first tuck. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



65 



Baste. 

Finish with a line of stitching or running the required width 
of the tuck from the creased edge. 

Creasing for the second tuck. Fold the first tuck down in 
position and measure for the second. 

From the crease of the first tuck to the crease of the second 
is three times the width of the tuck plus the space between 
the finished tucks. 




Fig. 70. Measuring and basting the second tuck 



Measure, crease, baste, and stitch or run each tuck. 

Example. If there is to be an inch hem, with a half-inch 
space between hem and tuck, the finished tucks one-eighth 
inch and the space between the tucks one-fourth inch, the 
following measurements should be made : 

From the crease of the hem to the crease of the first tuck : 

Hem plus space plus two times width of tucks equals one 
and three-fourths inches ; or 



:".+ £" +.2 xj" 



r3" 

x 4 " 



From the crease of one tuck to the crease of the next : 



66 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Three times the width of tuck plus space between tucks 
equals five-eighths inch ; or 



\n 



1 n — 5 " 



n v 1" 4- 1" - 

X 8 + 4 



In making hand-run tucks, work on the under side of the tuck. 
For machine-made tucks, stitch on the upper side of the tuck. 




000000a0<?0aae>a0000a000?oo0O00ooo* 




Fig. 71. Two tucks basted and folded back in position 



Ruffles 

A ruffle is a strip of cloth added to a garment for decoration, 
fullness, or length. 

Ruffles are cut in different ways according to the effect 
desired. 

A straight ruffle is usually cut with the woof threads. The 
woof threads are soft, and the ruffle gathers easily and hangs 
in attractive folds. The depth of the ruffle is with the warp 
threads. These threads are the stronger and take the strain 
which comes in wearing and in ironing. 

Sometimes to save time in piecing, or to save material in 
making, a ruffle is cut with the warp threads. It gives a stiff, 
bunchy effect, and is less attractive and less durable. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 67 

A bias ruffle is one cut with the true bias. It is used most 
often for plaids and stripes, as a decorative effect is obtained 
by this change of line. 

The amount of fullness required in ruffles is as follows : 

For a straight ruffle on a straight edge, one and one-fourth 
to one and one-half times the space to which the ruffle is to 
be joined. 

For a bias ruffle on a straight edge, one and one-fourth 
times the length of the space. 

For a straight ruffle on an inward curve, one and one-sixth to 
one and one-fourth times the length of the space. 

For a straight ruffle on an outward curve, one and one-half 
to one and three-fourths times the length of the space. 

For a straight ruffle around a square corner, two times the 
width of the ruffle. 

Methods of adjusting the fullness of a ruffle (see p. 56). 
Ruffles are joined to garments in many ways. The effect 
desired, the place on the garment, and the material used, 
determine the method. 

Ruffles joined to garments by seams. An overhanded seam 
may be used to join a ruffle to a garment, if the top of the 
ruffle is rolled and gathered and if the garment has a finished 
edge. 

The overhanded seam is used to join a lace ruffle to the 
finished edge of the garment. 

A plain seam is frequently used, but to give a flat finish and 
a more attractive effect the seam is usually covered on the 
right side with bias facing, finishing braid, insertion, or a tuck 
of the material. On the wrong side the seam is covered with a 
facing which may be wide or narrow, straight or bias. 

1 . For a plain seam on the right side of the garment covered 
with a strip of bias seam tape, place the wrong side of the 
ruffle against the wrong side of the garment. Pin and baste. 



68 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Stitch on the first line of gathering. 

Crease the garment and ruffle open on the wrong side, and 
on the right side crease the seam flat against the garment. 

Place the bias seam tape with the lower folded edge just over 
the stitching of the seam. Baste and stitch along the lower and 
upper edges of the bias. 

2. Two rows of stitching may be used instead of the three 
rows in No. I. Place the wrong side of the ruffle against the 
wrong side of the garment. Pin and baste. 

Place the lower edge of the wrong side of the bias seam tape 
against the ruffle side of the seam, with the folded edge of the 
tape just over the first row of gathering. 

Stitch through the folded edge of the tape, ruffle, and garment 
seam. 

Crease the garment and ruffle open on the wrong side. 
Stitch the upper edge of the bias tape to the garment. 

The directions for No. I and No. 2 may be reversed and 
the finishing seam made on the wrong side of the garment. 

A French seam may be used, but it is bulky. The standing 
seam is less satisfactory than a flat finish. The bulk is due to 
the double seam and to the fullness of the ruffle on one side of 
the seam. 

A modified French seam is less bulky than the French seam. 

Directions for making. Begin as for the French seam by 
placing the two wrong sides together. Baste and stitch. 

Crease along the stitching and fold the cloth on the garment 
side of the seam around the two sides of the seam. Baste and 
stitch. 

The second stitching should be placed beside the first, but 
on the rufBe side of the seam. 

Plain seam on the right side, covered with a tuck. Crease a 
line three fourths of an inch from the edge and stitch a quarter- 
inch tuck. Crease the tuck down in place. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



69 



Fold the cloth below the tuck toward the wrong side and 
make a crease in line with the lower edge of the tuck. 

Put in a guide basting beside this crease, but on the tuck side. 

Place the wrong side of the ruffle against the wrong side of 
the garment, with the first row of gathering directly in line 
with the guide basting. 

Baste and stitch the seam with the stitching on the first line 
of gathers. 

Cut the seam to the desired width. 

Crease the seam up under the tuck with the ruffle down in 
place. 

Stitch the lower edge of the tuck down over the seam. 




MMptW ' ^•■^NWl^lUi ' 



Rolled Hems and Whipping 

A rolled hem is often daintier than a creased hem when used 
on sheer material. With practice it is easily and quickly made. 

Cut all ravelings from the edge to be rolled. 

Hold the material with the wrong 
side up and the edge to be rolled 
at the left. 

Begin at the upper end, roll the 
edge of the cloth between the left 
thumb and forefinger, toward the 
wrong side. On soft materials the be- 
ginning of the roll is made more 
easily by placing a fine needle along 
the edge and rolling the edge over 
the needle. 

The edge must be rolled tightly, 
not creased. 

Hold the end of the roll between 
the right thumb and forefinger ; place the material between 
the third and little fingers of the left hand ; hold tightly. 



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mm 

44 

a 



Fig. 72. A rolled hem 



7° 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Continue the roll already started for about two inches. 

To confine the roll. Use a fine needle and thread. Begin 
with a small knot concealed or with a double stitch. 

Hold the work as for hemming, and slip the needle under the 
roll and through the cloth at the left. No stitch is taken through 
the roll or in the cloth under the roll. The thread encircles 
the roll in a spiral line. 

Make the space between the stitches a little longer than 
that required for regular hemming on similar material. 




Fig. 73. An edge rolled and gathered with the overcasting stitch 



If the edge has been stretched by the rolling, draw the 
thread tight enough to restore the original length and shape. 
This is especially necessary when bias or curved edges are 
rolled. 

Rolled hem with lace ruffle attached. 1. The edge may be 
rolled and hemmed, the lace gathered, and the two overhanded. 
This requires at least two lines of stitches where only one is 
necessary. 

2. Roll the edge, and gather the lace, either by drawing up 
the thread in the edge of the lace or by putting in a line of 
running stitches. 

Arrange the gathers for the required amount of fullness. 

Place the lace over the left forefinger with the gathered edge 
exactly beside the rolled edge of the cloth. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



71 



Insert the needle under the roll, through the cloth, and into 
the edge of lace. Continue, taking a stitch through the edge 
of the lace with every stitch taken to confine the roll. 

Rolling and gathering or whipping. Make a roll on the 
edge. 

Hold the edge as for overcasting with the wrong side toward 
the body. 

Begin with a knot if it can be concealed with a later 
finish, otherwise begin with a double stitch. 




Fig. 74. Two rolled edges joined with a line of overhanding 

Insert the needle from the right side down under the roll. 
No stitches should be taken through the roll. 

Draw up the gathers and arrange the fullness with every 
few stitches. 

The amount of fullness will determine the space between 
the stitches. Increase or decrease the space according to the 
fullness. 

Heavy thread for the gathering is unattractive and should 
not be used. Use a coarse needle and fine thread when there 
is much strain ; the needle makes a large hole, and the gathers 
slip easily with less strain on the thread. 



72 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Fig. 75. Two 

strips seamed 

for a mitered 

corner 



Fig. 76. The right side of 
the mitered corner 



Mitered Corners 

To miter two strips of cloth, make a diagonal fold at the 
end of one strip by placing the end exactly in line with 
the side of the strip. 
Crease open the fold and 
cut on the crease. 

Cut the other strip with 
a corresponding bias. 

Place the right sides 
of the strips together, 
with the two ends even. 
Baste and stitch. 

Press the seam open 
and trim off the ends of 
the seam which extend 
beyond the square. 
To miter the corners of a hemmed square. 1. Fold and 
crease the hems along the sides of the square. 

Open the creases of the hems at one corner and make a 
pinhole where the creases of 



the second turn of the hems 
cross each other. 

Make a diagonal fold across 
the corner, creasing a seam's 
width outside the pinhole. 
Measure carefully to get the 
two sides of this triangle the 
same length. 

Open the fold and cut 
along the diagonal crease. 

Fold and baste the hem 
along one side of the square. 



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Fig. 77. A mitered corner. The corner 
creased for cutting 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



73 



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Make one turn along the diagonal of the second hem, from 
the outer edge to the corner. 

Fold and baste the Hem along the 
second side of the square. 

Baste the bias fold of the corner 
and hem, taking the stitches through 
one thickness only. 

2. A second method of finishing a 
mitered corner often gives better re- 
sults on soft or loosely woven material. 
Crease the hems the required width 
on two sides of the square, 

Mark the point for the diagonal 
turn by opening out both hems and placing a pinhole where 
the creases of the second turn of the hems cross. 

Make a diagonal turn toward 
the wrong side exactly in line with 
the pinhole. 

Fold the two right sides together 
across the corner with the outer 
edges of the square even. 



Fig. 78. A mitered corner. 
Corner cut and seams basted 



Overhand the two diagonal folds. 



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Cut off the triangular piece of 
cloth a seam's width beyond the 
diagonal fold. 

Turn the corner right side out. 
Crease, baste, and finish the hems. 

3. Another method of cutting 
out the unnecessary material from 
the corner of a hemmed square is similar to the miter. 

Fold and crease the hems the required width. 

Mark with a pin the line where the second hem overlaps 
the first. 



Fig. 79. Showing the method 
of cutting extra material from 
the corner of a hemmed square. 
The lines on which to cut are 
ab and be 



74 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Open out both hems. 

Cut out a rectangular piece on the first hem turned. Cut to 
within a seam's width of the second turn of the hem and to 
within a seam's width of the pin which marks the line of the 
overlapping hem. 

Crease and baste the first hem ; crease and baste the 
second. 

Baste and hem along the line where the second hem over- 
laps the first. Overhand the two folded edges from the corner 
along the width of the second hem. 

Plackets 

A placket is a finished opening in a garment, used for ease 
in putting the garment on, and, in the case of the tailored shirt- 
waist sleeve placket, for ease in ironing. 

Length of placket. To find the required length of a placket, 
subtract the measurement of the body, where the garment is 
confined, from the measurement of the largest part of the body 
over which the garment passes when being put on. Divide by 
two and add from two to four inches for ease. 

Example. Find the required length of the skirt placket if 
the waist measure is 24" and the largest hip measure is 44". 
Subtract the waist measurement 24" from 44". Dividing the 
remaining 20" by 2, gives 10", the shortest possible length. 
Add from 2" to 4" for safety and ease. 

The edge finishes for plackets may be hems, bindings, fac- 
ings, half-bindings, and half-facings, or a combination of two 
of these methods. 

Place of plackets. A placket may be an opening in the upper 
part of a seam or it may be a gash in the material. 

Lap of plackets. The general rule for fastening women's 
and children's garments which close in the front or in the back 
is to lap the right side over on the left. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 75 

For the opening at the hip there is a variation ; drawers 
should fasten with the back lapped over the front, while skirts 
fasten with the front over the back. 

For sleeve plackets at the end of the elbow line, the top of 
the sleeve laps over the under half ; at the end of the sleeve 
seam, the under half laps over the top. 

Double-hemmed placket. This is a strong, easily made placket 
but with limitations as to its use. It can be used only on full 
breadths or where a plait of fullness at the end of the placket 
will not be objectionable. It is especially satisfactory for a 
petticoat with a full back, an infant's slip, front opening on a 
sack nightgown, and, when the hems are very narrow, on a shirt- 
waist sleeve. 

The hems may be of the same width, both wide or both nar- 
row, or the hem of the upper lap may be much wider than that 
of the under lap. The required lap of the garment, the material, 
and the effect desired will determine the width of the hem. 

Method of making. Cut the placket the required length. 
For a placket with an inch hem for the upper lap and a quarter- 
inch hem for the under lap, cut at the end of the gash hori- 
zontal gashes in both directions, each one-eighth inch, or the 
width of the first turn of the hems. 

Hold the top of the garment up with the right side out and 
the placket line toward the body. 

Turn a hem one inch wide on the right side of the gash 
toward the wrong side of the garment. Keep the hem uniform 
in width throughout the entire length. 

Turn a hem one-fourth inch wide on the left side of the 
gash toward the wrong side of the garment. 

Finish both hems with machine stitching or hand hemming. 

Lap the wide hem over the narrow one until the outer edge 
of the narrow hem is directly in line with the stitching of the 
wide hem. 



7 6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Baste across the end of the placket to hold the hems in place, 
and finish with two horizontal lines of stitching, one-eighth 
inch apart. Place both rows just below the end of the gash. 

Suggestion. If the hem of the under lap is wider than the sum 
of the two first turns, the horizontal gashes at the end of placket 
must be lengthened to allow the hems to be folded over smoothly. 
Placket with continuous binding. This placket is used on 
drawers, bloomers, gored petticoats, gored dress skirts, shirt- 
waist sleeves, etc. It is strong for the 
strain of wearing, but frequently pulls 
out at the end from the strain of ironing. 
Method of making. Cut the gash the 
required length. For the binding, cut a 
strip with the warp threads, twice the 
length of the gash ; and with the woof 
threads, twice the required width of the 
finished binding plus two eighth-inch 
seams. The width of the finished bind- 
ing should be the required lap of the 




mmiL 

Fig. So. A placket fin- 
ished with a continuous 
binding 



garment. 



Place three backstitches at the end of 
the gash and perpendicular to it. 

For a machine-finished binding, place the right side of the 
binding against the wrong side of the garment, with edges 
together at the top of the placket. Toward the end of the gash, 
slip the edge of the binding beyond the edge of the garment 
until, at the end, it is almost a seam's width beyond. 

Make the second side like the first. 

Stitch with an eighth-inch seam along the two sides of the 
gash, taking one stitch beyond the line of backstitching. The 
seam should be of uniform width throughout its length on 
the binding side ; but on the garment side it should gradually 
decrease to a few threads at the end of the gash. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION yy 

Crease and finish according to directions for a machine- 
made binding. 

Crease the binding flat against the garment on the side of 
the upper lap. The other side extends out beyond the garment 
directly under the upper lap. 

The appearance of the placket is frequently improved by 
stitching the two laps of the placket together with a diagonal 
stitching, which ends exactly at the end of the gash. 

A reversible placket. This placket is finished with a con- 
tinuous binding one fourth or three eighths of an inch wide. It 
is used on garments which may be reversed in wearing so that 
an upper and under or back and front lap is not desired. The 
two laps should be joined with a diagonal stitching at the end 
of the placket. 

Caution. When the placket is an opening in the upper part 
of a seam, care should be taken to make the seam line of the 
placket finish exactly in line with the stitching of the seam. 

Placket with continuous binding, modified. This placket is 
used on drawers, bloomers, the front opening of combinations, 
etc. It is more conspicuous than the placket finished with a 
binding, but is more durable. 

Method of making. Cut the gash the required length. Cut 
the strip for the binding twice the length of the gash, with 
the warp threads ; and twice the width of the finished binding 
plus two eighth-inch seams, with the woof threads. 

Place three backstitches at the end of the gash and perpen- 
dicular to it. 

Place the right side of the binding against the right side of 
the garment, slipping the garment away from the edge of the 
binding so that at the end of the gash the seam is only a few 
threads wide on the garment side. 

Stitch an eighth-inch seam on the two sides of the gash, 
taking one stitch beyond the line of backstitches. 



yS SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Crease to the wrong side as a binding. 

Determine the proper lap of the placket. 

On the upper lap cut out the unnecessary material, cutting 
to within a seam's width of the center lengthwise fold of the 
binding and to within a seam's width of the crosswise fold at 
the end of the gash. 

Finish the upper lap as a facing either by hand or machine. 

Place a line of stitches across the end of the placket through 
the facing and garment ; use machine stitching if the facing is 
stitched, backstitching if the facing is hemmed by hand. 

Hem the binding by hand. 

When finished the upper lap of the placket is faced, and the 
under lap is bound. 

Fastenings 

The general rule for women's and children's garments, 
whether in the front or in the back, is to fasten the right 
over the left. 

Buttonholes 

A buttonhole is a slit cut and worked in a garment to admit 
a button. 

The size of the buttonhole for a flat button is the diameter 
of the button plus its thickness ; for a round button it is the 
diameter of the button plus at least one sixteenth of an inch. 

Marking for the buttonhole. Make the proper lap and 
determine the place for the buttonholes. Mark both ends of 
the buttonhole with pinholes. The front end of the button- 
hole should be at least one-fourth inch from the edge of the 
garment. 

Cutting the buttonhole. Cut with a thread of the cloth. 
With buttonhole scissors set the gauge for the desired length, 
place the notch of the scissors at the point marked for the front 
of the buttonhole, and cut the desired length. 



„ > V ^ ^ f • 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 79 

If not provided with buttonhole scissors, use sharp-pointed 
scissors. Fold the cloth across the center of the space marked 
for the buttonhole and cut a short gash. Open out the fold, 
insert the point of the scissors in the gash, and cut in both 
directions to the points marked for the ends of the buttonhole. 

Underneath preparation. Buttonholes are always made in at 
least two thicknesses of cloth. Use a fine needle and thread. 
With the wrong side of the garment up, start at the end of the 
gash that is away from the fold of the 
garment, and take two running stitches 
perpendicular to the gash. 

Hold the buttonhole along the cush- 
ion of the left forefinger and take from fig.Si. Underneath prep- 
three tO five Overcasting Stitches along aration of a buttonhole. 
the first side. Turn the buttonhole and . ® s \ ror " ° ' a 

is the front end and b the 

take a corresponding number of stitches b ac k enc j 

along the other side. 

Finish with two running stitches along the back end of the 
gash, directly over the first ones made. 

Application of the buttonhole stitch. Use the size of thread 
which is suitable for the material on which the buttonhole is 
to be made. 

Work on the right side. 

See directions for stitch, p. 29. 

Start with two running stitches at the back end of the gash 
and perpendicular to it. 

Hold the gash along the cushion of the left forefinger and 
cover the lower edge with a line of buttonhole stitches. 

Fan end. When the last stitch that can be placed per- 
pendicular to the gash is made on the lower edge, take 
three to five stitches around the end with all stitches radi- 
ating evenly from the corner, and the purl of the stitches 
placed close together. 



8o 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 




Turn the work and continue with the buttonhole stitch along 
the second side of the gash. 

Barred end. Without turning the work, place the needle 
through to the wrong side at the point marked by the depth 
of the first buttonhole stitch. Take a stitch to the right side, 
bringing the needle through the point which marks the depth 
of the last buttonhole stitch. 

Draw up the thread to make a firm stitch. Repeat this 
stitch twice. 

Turn the work with the buttonhole toward the body and the 
thread bar along the left forefinger. The thread is at the left 

of the bar. Blanket-stitch across 
this bar with about eight stitches, 
taking up a thread of the cloth 
with each stitch. The purl of the 
blanket stitches should be on the 
buttonhole side of the bar. 

To finish, complete the purl of 
the last blanket stitch by placing 
the needle at the right of the last stitch and through to the 
wrong side. Take a double stitch on the wrong side. 

The width of the bar should be exactly the width of the first 
buttonhole stitch plus the last. The bar should be exactly at 
the end of the gash and perpendicular to it. 

The purpose of the bar is to protect the buttonhole from the 
strain of the fingers in buttoning the garment and from strain 
in ironing. 

Blanket-stitched fan. A more attractive fan end can be 
made by substituting blanket stitches for buttonhole stitches. 
The purl of the blanket stitch is lighter and naturally less 
strong than the purl of the buttonhole stitch, but more blanket 
stitches can be used, thus adding strength by an increase in 
the number of stitches. 



Fig. 82. A buttonhole with a 

fan end at the front and a bar 

at the back end 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



81 




Fig. 83. Showing the position of the 
cloth for making the buttonhole 



Method of making. When the last buttonhole stitch is 
made along the first side of the buttonhole, turn the work 

until the thread from the 
cloth is at the left. This is 
the position for the blanket 
stitch, with the purl down 
and progress from left to 
right. Make seven blanket 
stitches, radiating from the 
point of the front end. 
Turn the work until the 
thread from the cloth is at 
the right, and the second 
side of the buttonhole is in position along the left forefinger. 
Continue with the buttonhole stitch along the second side. 

Kinds of buttonholes. Button- 
holes may be named according 
to their end finish ; as, fan and 
barred. 

They may be named according 
to their use ; as, end and inclosed 
buttonholes. 

An end buttonhole is one which, 
when the garment is buttoned, has 
the buttonhole pulled at one end 
around the button. An end but- 
tonhole is finished with the front 
end a fan, the back end barred. 

An inclosed buttonhole is one 
which, when the garment is but- 
toned, leaves the button in the 

center with no strain at either end. An inclosed buttonhole 
is finished with both ends alike, either two fan ends or two 




Fig. 84. An end buttonhole 




Fig. 85. An inclosed buttonhole 




Fig. 86. An inclosed buttonhole 



82 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

barred ends ; the general finish of the garment and the effect 
desired will determine which should be used. 

A good buttonhole requires a tight, even purl ; stitches of 
uniform depth and space, perpendicular to the edge. Make the 
stitches as shallow as the strength of the buttonhole and the 
character of the cloth will allow. 

Suggestions. In general, overcast the buttonhole with thread 
one size finer than that used in making the garment. Button- 
hole with three sizes coarser than that used for overcasting. 

If the material on which the buttonhole is to be worked frays 
badly, reenforce by basting a piece of firm, fine cloth on the 
wrong side. Work the buttonhole through all thicknesses and 
cut away the extra cloth up to the buttonhole stitch. 

To prevent the raveling of the edge while overcasting, mark 
for the buttonhole and place a row of machine stitching on 
both sides of the buttonhole line ; cut the gash between the 
two lines of stitching. 

Buttons 

A button is a catch of metal or other material over which 
the buttonhole is slipped in fastening the garment. Buttons 
are made of many materials and in many shapes (see p. 147). 

For convenience in sewing on, buttons are made with two 
holes, four holes, a wire shank, or self shank. 

Mark and make the buttonholes first. 

Marking for buttons. Make the proper lap. Insert a pin 
in the cloth at the front of the buttonhole, taking up a 
few threads at the point where the button should be placed. 
Test, by pulling the buttonhole against the pin if it is 
an end buttonhole. With an inclosed buttonhole, the mark, 
when tested, should be exactly in the center of the button- 
hole. Mark for all buttons and test the entire lap before 
sewing on any buttons. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



83 




Method of sewing on. In general, use a single thread at 
least one size coarser than that used for the buttonhole. Start 
with a knot and double stitch on the right side at the place 
marked for the button. 

Two-hole button. Wjth the button in place take a stitch up 
through one hole, across, and down through the other. Insert a 
pin under this thread above the button. Continue with the 
number of stitches required for the strain on the button. All 
threads should be over the pin. With the last stitch bring the 
needle down through 
the hole of the button 
and out between the 
button and garment. 
Remove the pin. Pull 
the button up into the 
loop of thread. Wind 
the thread in the 
needle several times 

around the threads under the button to make a thread shank. 
Fasten with one or two double stitches close to the shank. 

Purpose of the thread shank. The space under the button 
made by the shank gives sufficient room for the buttonhole and 
prevents strain on the garment under the button when the gar- 
ment is ironed. If the iron hits the button, the thread shank 
allows the button to move and often prevents tearing the garment. 

Four -hole button. The method of sewing on four-hole but- 
tons is similar to the two-hole. Regularity in arrangement of 
stitches is necessary for neat appearance on both the right and 
the wrong side. The threads may be crossed on the right 
side with two parallel lines on the wrong side, or the reverse 
order may be followed. The beginning, the fastening of the 
thread, and the making of the thread shank are the same as 
for the two-hole button. 



Fig. 87. Showing a, a. two-hole button; b, a 
four-hole button ; c, a shank button 



84 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Caution. Slant the needle slightly toward the center of the 
button in all stitches taken down through the two-hole or four- 
hole button. This makes a shorter stitch on the wrong side and 
prevents the puckering of the cloth where the shank is made. 

Suggestion. Place two-hole buttons with the holes in line 
with the buttonhole. There is less strain on both the button 
and buttonhole bv this method. 

Place a shank button with the loop of the shank in line with 
the buttonhole. 

Hooks and Eyes 

There are two kinds of hooks and eyes in general use — the 
hump hook, which has a bent wire acting as a spring to hold 
the hook firmly in the eye, and the swan-bill hook, which has 
no spring nor hump and is used only where the strain of the 
fastening is sufficient to prevent its unfastening. 

Eyes are of two kinds : the loop eye, which is used on the 
edge of a garment where there is some strain ; and peets, which 
are wire bars used where there is less strain, where the fasten- 
ing is not on the extreme edge of the garment, or where an 
inconspicuous and flat fastening is required. Thread loops or 
bars are used where there is little strain on light-weight materials 
for an inconspicuous fastening. 

The space between the hooks and eyes is determined by 
their place on the garment and the amount of strain. The 
distance may vary from a half inch to several inches. 

Placing and marking. Mark for the hooks first. Place the 
front end of the hook one-sixteenth or one-eighth inch back 
from the edge of the garment. Sew the hooks in position. To 
determine the positions of the eyes, peets, or loops, make the 
proper lap of the garment and put a pin through both parts of 
the garment at the front loop of the hook. The pinhole will mark 
the place on the under lap for the front of the eye or loop. 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 



85 



%, 





Fig. 88. A hook and eye sewed on with overhanding 
stitches 



Method of sewing on. Spread the rings of the swan-bill hook 
and the loop eye to distribute the strain. Use a single strong 
thread. Start with a double stitch. Hold the hook firmly in 
place and sew around both rings with close overhanding stitches. 

Overhand the 
under part of 
the hook to the 
garment as far 
as the bend. 
Fasten with a 
double stitch at 
the bend ; run 
the needle back 
underneath the 
hook to the space between the two rings ; take another button- 
hole stitch at this point and cut the thread. 

In sewing on the hump hook, overhand around both rings ; 
fasten securely with several stitches the space between the 
rings and the hump ; slip the needle under the hump and 
fasten securely with several stitches 
the space between the hump and 
the bend. Slip the needle back 
under the hook and fasten with 
a buttonhole stitch between the j 
rmgs. 

Place the eye according to direc- 
tions and hold firmly in place. 

Start with a double stitch. Begin at the outside curve and 
overhand the rings securely to the garment. Take three or 
more stitches over one another at each side of the loop where 
the eye overlaps the edge of the garment (see a, Fig. 88). 
Slip the needle to the opposite ring and take a buttonhole 
stitch to secure the thread end. 



r 





Fig. 89. A hook and eye sewed 
on with buttonhole stitches 



86 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



b 




Buttonhole stitches may be used instead of overhanding to 
join the hooks and eyes to the garment. This method requires 
more time, but the appearance is more attractive and in case 
a change of position is necessary, the buttonhole stitch is 
ripped more easily than overhanding. 

Thread loops. Use a single strong thread. Hold the outer 
edge of the lap toward the body. Start with a double stitch on 
the wrong side ; take a stitch through to the right side and 

strand across the place marked for the 
loop with three or four stitches one-fourth 
inch long. All stranding stitches should 
begin and end at exactly the same points. 
The edge of the lap should be toward 
the body, and the thread should be at 
the left of the bar, ready for the blanket 
stitch. Take the first blanket stitch in 
the cloth at the end of the bar. Cover 
the bar with blanket stitches placed 
closely together. Take one blanket stitch 
at the right-hand end of the bar through 
the garment. Slip the needle from the right to the left-hand 
end of the bar, between the two thicknesses of cloth, and finish 
with a double stitch on the wrong side. The purl of the 
blanket stitches should be toward the edge of the lap. 

In stranding for the bar, short stitches perpendicular to the 
bar may be taken at each end instead of the underneath stitch 
in line with the strand on the right side. This method is not so 
strong, but prevents the finished bar from pulling out of place. 
In taking the blanket stitches over the bar, it is more 
convenient to use the eye of the needle instead of the point. 
Buttonhole stitches may be used instead of blanket stitches 
to cover the bar. If the loop is to be used to fasten over a 
button, the loop will twist less if made with buttonhole stitches. 



Fig. 90. Thread loops 
made with blanket 
stitches, a, needle in 
position ; b, completed 
loop ; c, enlarged loop 



PROCESSES OF CONSTRUCTION 87 

Snap Fasteners 

The snap, or ball-and-socket, fastener makes a close, flat 
fastening which is very satisfactory where there is little strain. 

The space between the snaps depends on their place on the 
garment and may vary from less than an inch to several inches. 

Marking. Mark for the balls on the inside of the upper lap. 
They should be on or near a line of stitching, if possible. 
When the balls have been attached to the garment, make the 
proper lap. Press the balls firmly against the under lap. On 
most materials this will make sufficient impression to be seen 
and marked with a pin. If the material does not give the 
impression readily, rub the end of the ball with tailor's chalk 
and mark the under lap in this way. 

Method of sewing on. Use a single, strong thread. Start 
with a knot to be concealed under the ball. Hold the ball 
firmly in place. Take several overhanding stitches in each 
hole on the edge. The number of stitches in each hole will be 
determined by the size of the fastening and the strain. When 
taking the stitch from one hole to the next, slip the needle 
between the two pieces of cloth on which the ball is sewed. 
Finish with a buttonhole stitch drawn tight and slip the 
needle through to the opposite edge of the ball before cutting 
the threads. 

Attach the socket according to the directions given for 
the ball. 

In using snaps or hooks and eyes on garments to be laundered 
it is very necessary to get those which are rust-proof. 



CHAPTER V 



MENDING 



Darning 



Use. Darning is that method of mending by which the worn 
or thin parts of a garment are replaced or strengthened by 
threads which form a texture similar to that of the garment. 

Stockinet darning. Stockinet 
is a knitted fabric used for 
undervests, union suits, stockings, 
etc. The woven darn is used on 
this material to fill the hole and 
reenforce the worn parts around 
the hole. 

Method of making the woven 
darn. Use a darning needle of 
convenient length and loosely 
twisted darning cotton, satisfac- 
tory in color and size. The number 
of strands used is determined 
by the texture of the garment. 
If a darn is made thicker than the surrounding material, it 
will tear out the thin part around the darn. If the darn is 
thinner than the material, it will not wear satisfactorily. 

Work on the wrong side. Never use a knot. Cut away all 
ragged edges and ravelings from the hole. For a large hole 
use a flat darning ball or a circle of cardboard. 

The darning stitches are arranged in the shape of a diamond 
or a square on its diagonal. By this method the longest warp 




Fig. 91. Showing the weaving of 
threads used in darning: 



MENDING 



89 



iTJISpfr 



and woof threads are placed through the center of the hole and 
the worn part is reenforced an even distance from the hole. 

Hold the stockinet lengthwise over the darning ball or 
cardboard and begin with the warp threads, the required dis- 
tance at the right of the hole. The darning stitches outside 
the hole may be 
taken through the 
cloth or they may 
be taken through 
the loops on the 
wrong side of the 
stockinet. 

Strand across the 
hole. With every 
stranding stitch 
place the needle 
to the right side 
of the garment 
through the loops 
on opposite sides 
of the hole. 

Leave a loop 
about one sixteenth of an inch long at every turn of the 
thread to allow for the stretching of the stockinet. 

If a very large hole is to be darned, begin with the longest 
threads through the center. This method will hold the work 
in shape. 

Reenforcing a thin place in the stockinet garment. Very 
satisfactory results are obtained in darning thin places by taking 
up the loop on the wrong side. No darning stitches show on 
the right side, but the thin place is reenforced sufficiently to 
prevent a hole for a time. Use this method on the heels of 
stockings just above the line of low shoes. 




Fig. 92. Showing a hole partly darned 



90 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

A dropped stitch in a stockinet garment ravels out quickly 
and makes a "run" or "Jacob's ladder." If only one stitch 
has dropped, pick up the loop at the lower end of the run 
with a crochet hook and crochet to the top of the run. Darn 
the beginning and the end of the run to secure the loops. 

If the texture of the stockinet or the length and width of 
the run make the preceding method impracticable, mend with 
fine drawn darning (see p. 96) or the woven darn. 

Grafting 

Use. Grafting is the joining of two pieces of stockinet in a 
way to render the joining invisible. 

Method of work. Use a darning needle and yarn to match 
the stockinet. Ravel the two edges that are to be joined until 
the loops are even and clear. 




Fig. 93. Showing grafting stitches and needle in position 

Place the edges together with the loops of one opposite the 
corresponding openings of the other (Fig. 93). 

Hold the right side of the garment toward the body and 
work from right to left. Fasten the end of the yarn by darning 
it in and out on the wrong side at the right-hand end where 
the joining is to begin. 



MENDING 91 

Insert the needle in an upper loop (Fig. 93, a) and take a stitch 
through the next loop. Insert the needle in the under loop, 
opposite the last stitch, and take a stitch into the next loop. 

Continue, taking two upper loops, then two under loops, 
using one new loop with every stitch. By this method the 
needle is inserted twice in each loop. 

Fasten the yarn by darning it in and out on the wrong side. 

Swiss Darni.ng 

The stitches in Swiss darning are taken in a manner similar 
to grafting, but are worked over the stitches in the stockinet. 

A patch set in by grafting and Swiss darning can be made 
almost invisible by using the following method : 

Cut a square or oblong hole in the stockinet following a thread 
of loops. Ravel the sides until the loops are even and free. 

Cut the patch large enough to fit the hole, cutting by 
a thread. 

Graft in the top and lower edges and Swiss-darn the edges 
along the sides, working over four or five stitches at each side 
of the joining. 

Ordinary machine-made stockinet is too fine for this type 
of mending, but heavy sweaters and similar garments may be 
mended successfully by this method. 

Stocking-web Darning 

Use. Stocking-web stitches are used to fill a hole in stock- 
inet when the darn is to match the garment in both texture 
and appearance. The stitches are made on a foundation of 
thread strands. 

Method. Use a fine long-eyed darning needle and heavy 
cotton thread for the stranding. 



92 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Place the ribs of the stockinet in a vertical position and 
baste the garment to a piece of stiff paper or cardboard ; place 
the wrong side of the garment next the stiff paper with the hole 
to be darned at the center. 

Cut a rectangular hole and ravel the edges until the loops 
are even. 

Connect the upper and lower loops with stranding stitches 

(Fig- 94). 

Use yarn to match stockinet and a suitable darning needle. 

Insert the needle one or two loops to the right of the lower 

row and one row above (Fig. 95, a). 

Swiss-darn the loops at the right of the hole (p. 95, a) and 
work across the strands with stitches similar to grafting (Fig. 93). 
Insert the needle between the strands for the beginning and 
finishing of the loops. Finish the row by Swiss-darning over 
two or three loops at the left of the hole. 

Turn the work around and make the second row similar to 
the first. 

Continue working up the strands and finish by grafting 
the last row of loops in the web-darn to the loops of the 
stockinet. 

Use this method of darning on heavy sweaters or other 
garments made with heavy yarn. 

Cloth Darning 

Use. Cloth darning is used to strengthen worn places on a 
garment or to draw together and hold securely the edges of 
a tear or cut. This method is less conspicuous than patching. 

Method. Always darn on the wrong side. For the darning 
use threads which match the garment in color and are strong 
and fine. Ravelings of cloth like the garment, split strands of 
sewing silk, or fine cotton thread are satisfactory. 




Fig. 94. Foundation of strands for stocking-web stitches 




Fig. 95. Stocking-web stitches 



94 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Fig. 96. Straightway tear, partly 
darned with vertical stitches 



h )- J- h£ 

I ' ' ' 



4 



</ 



Fig. 97. Straightway tear, partly 
darned with slanting stitches 



Straightway tears may be with the warp or with the woof 
threads. Hold the wrong side of the garment up with the 

edges together or basted to a 

1 . 1 1 1 \h 

piece of stiff paper. 

Darn across the tear, placing 
the stitches with the threads of 
the cloth (Figs. 96 and 97). 
Leave the darning thread loose 
enough at the turn to avoid any 
tendency to pucker. 

Do not use knots or double 
stitches in darning. 

The bias or diagonal cut must 

be darned with stitches in line 

with the warp or woof threads 

of the cloth (Fig. 98). 

Corner darn on a hedge tear. This type of tear should be 

mended along the two sides according to the directions for the 

straightway tear. The corner may be mended in two ways: 

1. Radiating stitches forming a fan, 
with a sufficient number of stitches to hold 
the corner firmly, may be used (Fig. 99). 

2. With some materials the corner is 
finished more satisfactorily by 
continuing the straightway darn 
in both directions beyond the 
tear and making a double corner. / 
This is stronger than the fan if 
the threads at the corner have ' 
been pulled, and it has the ad- 
vantage of being finished with 

. i-ii Fig. 98. Diagonal cut, partly darned. 

all stitches placed with the warp From a to b is the line of the warp 

and woof threads of the cloth. threads, c represents the cut 




MENDING 



95 



Cloth darning reenforced with a stay on the wrong side. If 
the material is thin, if there is much strain on the mended 
part of the garment, or if the material around the tear is thin 
or frayed, use a stay. 

The material for the stay may be the same as the garment 
or it may be very much lighter in weight. Chiffon and net are 
often used to stay the darning on a silk ,,-=-■ 
or woolen garment. ^ 

Place the stay on the wrong side of jC; 
the garment and match the threads of t~" 
the stay with the warp and woof threads ! 
of the garment. 

Darn on the wrong side through the ■ 
stay, if light weight, into the garment. FlG - 99- A hedge tear 

T-i t • , •• v i 'ii with corner darned with 

The darning stitches are scarcely visible ,. . 

° m J radiating stitches 

on the right side. 

When the stay is of heavy material the darning must be 
done on the right side, through the garment into the stay. 

Finish the edges of the stay by the method best suited to 
the material used. The edges of the stay may be catchstitched 
to the garment or they may be cut a narrow seam's width 
from the darning, and overcast. 

Fine Drawing on Heavy Material 

Fine drawn darning is an especially satisfactory method of 
mending a cut on heavy material. 

Use split silk and a fine needle. Place the edges close 
together and baste them with the right side against a piece of 
stiff paper. 

Work on the wrong side. Insert the needle through the 
edge of the cloth and take the stitch far enough from the edge 
to prevent raveling. 



9 6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Insert the needle in the opposite edge, a short distance 

down from the first, and take a second stitch (Fig. ioo). 

Draw the edges together firmly with each stitch and continue. 

To strengthen. Darn across the entire length 

of the tear. Use split silk for the darning and 

take no stitches through to the right side. 

Remove from the paper, brush up the nap 
if there is any, place a damp cloth over the 
right side of the darn, and press. Remove 
the iron before the press-cloth is dry, to avoid 
a shine on the garment. 

Fine Drawn Patch 

Cut the hole to a rectangular shape. Match 
Fig. ioo. This is the material f the patc i 1 to t h e garment, match- 
the stitch used in L " 

fine drawn darning ing warp, woof , figure, nap, etc. Cut the patch 
the exact size of the hole. 

Baste the right side of the garment to a piece of stiff paper 
with the hole at the center. Baste the patch in place. 

Join the edges of patch and garment according to the 
directions given for fine drawing. 




Hemmed Patch 

The hemmed patch is used on garments and on household 
linen where a strong patch is necessary to withstand the strain 
of frequent laundering and where the conspicuous appearance 
of the overlapping material around the hole is not objectionable. 
It is used on muslin underwear, sheets, etc. 

Method. Cut the hole to a rectangular shape, cutting the 
sides with the warp and woof threads. 

Fold the garment with the warp and woof threads, creasing 
through the centers of the four sides of the hole. 



MENDING 



97 



Cut a patch at least one inch longer and wider than the 
hole. Use material for the patch that matches the color and 
weight of the garment at the time it is mended. 

Fold the patch through the center in both directions, making 
the creases with the warp threads and with the woof threads. 




Fig. ioi. A hemmed patch 



Place the right side of the patch against the wrong side of 
the garment, with warp and woof threads and figures and creases 
matching. Pin in place. 

Cut small triangular pieces from the four corners of the 
patch to make the turns less bulky. 

Turn in the raw edges of the patch an even seam's width 
on the four sides. Baste the patch to the garment. 



9 8 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Turn in the raw edges of the garment an even seam's width 
on the four sides. With diagonal cuts, gash the four corners 
the required depth. Baste the garment to the patch. 

Hem the garment to the patch and the patch to the garment. 



1=3 




Fig. 102. The right side of an overhanded patch 



The counter hem, or the space between the two lines of 
hemming stitches where garment and patch overlap, may vary 
in width. If the thin part of the garment around the hole is cut 
away, the counter hem may be as narrow as one-fourth inch. If 
only the worn part of the garment is cut away, the thin part 
around the hole should be reenforced by a wide counter hem. 

The width of the turns on both patch and garment will vary 
with the type of material used. 



MENDING 



99 



OVERHANDED PATCH 

The overhanded patch is used where the hole is too large 
for darning and where careful matching of the materials is 





iinii ii W ^ ii i iK i ni i l i it i iih^ 



'z 




A A A AA.A A A A VWA^ 



V 



H i k i i^ ii ii)iiii) i ii^ i ii^i^i i ^ ii i^ i i i ^A 'i i ^iAmi 



-=S„ V- ~-— ^-~ -7-.. /+' 






Fig. 103. The wrong side of an overhanded patch 

necessary for an inconspicuous patch. It is used on dresses, 
coats, etc. 

Method. Cut the hole to a rectangular shape, removing all 
thin and ragged edges. Make one turn an even seam's width 
to the wrong side of the garment on the four sides of the hole. 
Cut diagonal gashes in the four corners to the point where 
the creased lines intersect. 

Caution. Do not gash beyond the creased line. 



100 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Hold the garment right side up and match the patch to the 
hole. Make one turn along the top of the patch at the place 
necessary for matching the figures with those of the garment. 
Match warp and woof threads of patch and garment. 




Fig. 104. The right side of a catchstitched patch 

Place the right side of the patch against the right side of 
the garment with folded edges matching. Baste the two 
together near the folded edges. 

Match the side of the patch to the garment, make one turn 
toward the wrong side of the patch. Baste with the two right 
sides together. 

Continue around the four sides of the hole. 

Overhand the patch to the garment with shallow overhand- 
ing stitches. Do not pucker the seam by drawing the thread 
too tight. 



MENDING IOI 

Cut an even seam on the patch. 

Miter the corners of the patch if necessary. The mitered 
corner is less bulky and is less strong. 

Overcast the two edges of the seam separately. 




Fig. 105. The wrong side of a catchstitched patch 

Catchstitched or Stockinet Patch 

This patch is used on knitted garments where the hole is 
too large to darn. Catchstitching is the only stitch that 
will stretch with the stockinet. It is used on undervests, 
stockings, etc. 

Method. Cut away all frayed and ragged edges, making a 
clean round hole. Crease with the lengthwise ribs through the 
center of the hole. Crease across the ribs through the center. 
Mark the lines outside the hole with pins or bastings placed 



102 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

in vertical and horizontal positions to mark the center lines 
for the application of the patch. 

Cut a rectangular-shaped patch of material like the garment, 
at least an inch and a half larger than the hole. Crease the 
patch through the center in the two directions and mark the 
creases with pins or bastings. 

Place the right side of the patch against the wrong side of 
the garment, lengthwise and crosswise creases together and 
ribs matching. Pin and baste the patch to the garment and the 
garment to the patch. 

Use darning cotton and catchstitch the garment to the 
patch and the patch to the garment. 

If the patch is in a conspicuous place like the knee of a 
stocking, darn the edge of the garment to the patch. 



CHAPTER VI 

MACHINES 

The machine is an important part of the sewing-room equip- 
ment. Much personal and household sewing can be done by 
machine as well as by hand, with a great saving of time. 
Machine sewing should not mean careless sewing ; good 
creasing and careful basting are as essential preparations for 
machine sewing as for hand sewing. An intelligent knowledge 
of the machine and its adjustments is the next step toward 
good results. A high standard and correspondingly beautiful 
work should be the aim. 

Kinds of machine. There are two kinds of machine, the 
chain-stitch (single thread or automatic) and the lock-stitch (or 
two-thread). The names suggest some of the characteristics 
of each. 

The chain-stitch machine is a small, light-running machine. 
The Willcox and Gibbs, Singer, and National are examples of 
this type. The fact that there is no under bobbin makes 
extremely simple the complete threading with a single thread. 
The tension is automatic, leaving the length of stitch the one 
adjustment to be made. This machine costs more than the 
two-thread, the chain stitch rips if not securely fastened, and 
all stitching must be done on the right side. These facts are 
responsible in part, at least, for certain prejudices against a 
very satisfactory type of machine. 

The lock-stitch machine is the type most commonly used 
in homes and schools. The Singer, New Home, Standard, 
White, etc. are examples. This is a larger, heavier machine 

103 



104 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

than the chain-stitch, and with the upper and under thread- 
ing and additional number of adjustments it requires more 
careful study. 

Learn the name and purpose of the following parts of the 
machine, and with the help of the book of directions, which 
comes with every machine, learn the position of each on 
the machine. 

Treadle Presser-foot bar 

Belt wheel Presser-foot lever 

Balance wheel Tension releaser 

Stop-motion Thread cutter 

Upper tension Feed 

Take-up lever Under tension 
Presser-foot 

When learning to use a sewing machine, remember that it is 
both expensive and complicated, and do not attempt to control 
all the parts at once. 

Order in which the parts of the machine control should be 
learned : i . Treadle. Release the belt from the balance wheel. 
Sit squarely in front of the machine and in the beginning 
place both feet on the treadle. Start the motion with the belt 
wheel by hand, catch the motion with the feet, and practice 
until the belt wheel can be easily and smoothly revolved in 
either direction by means of the treadle. 

2. Balance wheel. Connect the large and small wheels with 
the belt. Start the machine by turning the balance wheel with 
the right hand. This motion is carried by means of the belt to the 
belt wheel and by means of the rod to the treadle. Catch this 
motion with the feet and continue with even treadling. 

3. The relation of presser-foot and feed and the action of 
the feed. When lowered against the cloth the presser-foot 
presses it against the feed. The feed with its sharp teeth 



MACHINES 105 

carries the cloth toward the back with each stitch. Try the 
action of these two parts by stitching on paper. This offers, 
in addition, experience in guiding. 

4. The correct threading of both the upper and under 
threads is the next step in the order of work. There is a con- 
venient and natural order of threading every machine. By 
observing the parts, their use and action, few mistakes in 
threading should be made. 

Stitching. When the upper and under parts of the machine 
have been threaded, draw up the under thread. 

Place both threads together toward the back of the machine. 
This insures a neat beginning. 

By a slight movement of the balance wheel determine the 
correct turn by observing the feed. The direction of the turn 
which carries the feed back when it is above the surrounding 
plate is the correct motion for stitching. 

Place the cloth in position with the bulk of the garment at 
the left, lower the presser-foot, and stitch the required distance. 

To remove the work, raise the needle to the highest point 
to complete the stitch. The take-up lever will be at its highest 
point, thus providing a sufficient amount of thread for the first 
stitch in the next piece of work. Raise the presser-foot, release 
the tension, pull the work diagonally back toward the left, cut 
or break the thread. 

Methods of fastening thread ends. 1. Tie the ends with a 
square knot. 

2. Turn the work and stitch back over the completed line 
for a half inch ; cut the threads close to the cloth. 

3. Thread one of the ends in a needle and finish with 
overhanding stitches or a double stitch. 

The place on the garment will determine the method to use. 
Strong fastening adds to the durability of the garment ; neat 
fastening adds to its attractiveness. 



ro6 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Adjustments to be Made 

Tension. The tension regulates the amount of thread to be 
used in the stitch. Although the machine is provided with 
both upper and under tension, the adjustments are made by- 
means of the upper tension. The appearance of the stitch is 
described in terms of upper tension. 

1 Tight tension " describes the stitch when the upper thread 
appears as a straight line. Loosen the upper tension. 

" Loose tension " describes the stitch when the under thread 
appears as a straight line and the upper thread shows in tiny 
loops on the wrong side. Tighten the upper tension. 

Perfect tension gives a round appearance to the stitch on 
both the right and the wrong side of the garment. An equal 
amount of upper and under thread is used in each stitch and 
the threads lock halfway between the right and wrong sides 
of the cloth. 

An irregular slant of stitches in a line of machine stitching 
indicates that the under tension is not working properly. The 
spring may be bent or loosened or a thread may be caught 
under the tension. 

The stitch regulator is a sliding or stationary screw at the left 
of the balance wheel. This regulates the movement of the 
feed determining the length of each stitch. 

The kind of material and the size of thread influence the 
length of stitch. With soft material a short stitch is necessary 
to avoid puckering. 

Presser-foot bar. The screw at the upper end of the bar 
regulates the pressure of the foot against the feed. Thin mate- 
rial requires a lighter pressure than heavy. The appearance of 
feed marks on thin material indicates too heavy pressure. Thick 
materials require a heavier pressure. If the machine does not 
" feed " easily, increase the pressure. 



MACHINES 



Suggestions for the Use of the Machine 



107 



Never pull or push the work while stitching ; guide with a 
light pressure. A perfectly adjusted machine will stitch a 
straight line in the direction started, without guiding. 

To turn a corner, stitch to the point of turning with the 
needle down in the corner. Raise the needle slightly, but with- 
out raising it to the surface of the cloth. Use the needle as a 
pivot and turn the cloth in the direction desired for the other 
line of stitching. 

Bias and silk or flannel seams. Use a short stitch and a 
tension loose enough to allow for the strain of the seam, and 
thus prevent a puckered seam. 

Gathering with loose tension is often more satisfactory than 
with the ruffler and saves the time that is required for hand 
gathering. Adjust the length of the stitch according to the 
amount of fullness and the quality of the cloth to be gathered. 
Loosen the upper tension. Stitch the length of the space to 
be gathered with one or two rows. Adjust the gathers by 
drawing up the under thread. 

Caution. Do not try to gather long spaces. Work carefully 
if fine thread must be used. Do not pull the upper thread 
by mistake. 

Decorative stitching. Wind the bobbin with silkateen, knit- 
ting silk, or similar material. Slip the bobbin into the carrier, 
but do not thread under the spring of the under tension. 
Thread the upper part of the machine with fine thread or silk. 
Lengthen the stitch and loosen the tension slightly. Stitch 
with the wrong side up and the line of heavy silk will be on the 
right side. Parallel rows of decorative stitching make an 
attractive trimming. 



108 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Attachments 

The attachments should not be used until the machine is 
easily controlled. 

Many of the attachments when properly adjusted and skill- 
fully used give satisfactory results with a saving of considerable 
time for creasing and basting. But time is required for the 
proper adjustments, and unless the attachment is to be used 
for a long piece of work it is hardly worth while. 

The attachments most often used are the hemmers, tucker, 
adjustable binder, braider, and ruffler with five-stitch regulator 
for plaiting. 

Care of the Machine 

Keep pins and needles away from the feed. 

Keep threads and scraps away from the belt. 

Keep the machine covered when not in use. 

Keep the machine well oiled with a thin, light-colored oil. 
It is better to use a few drops frequently on the parts where 
there is friction than to flood the machine with oil at less fre- 
quent intervals. The amount that the machine is used will 
determine whether the machine should be oiled daily or weekly. 

Clean the machine thoroughly at least once a month, with 
alcohol or kerosene. Put the alcohol (or kerosene) in a clean 
oil can ; flood the oil holes with alcohol, run the machine to 
get the alcohol well into the parts. Let it stand for a few 
minutes and wipe off all parts carefully. This removes the 
dried oil and dust. Oil thoroughly. The treadle and belt wheel 
should be kept clean and well oiled. 

Caution. Do not let the alcohol touch the finished woodwork 
of the machine. 

A clean, well-oiled machine wears longer, runs more easily, 
and gives far better results than the neglected machine. 



CHAPTER VII 

SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR THE APPLICATION OF 
STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 

Plain Sewing Bag 

Materials. Use i yard of fine checked gingham, chambray, 
sateen, light-weight cretonne, or similar material, 28" to 32" 
in width. 

Use I yard of white cotton tape or colored ribbon \ n wide. 

Method of making. Cut the ends even with a thread. 

If out of line, pull into shape. 

Fold the two right sides together with selvages even, pin 
and baste. 

Side seam. 1. Join the selvages with an overhanded seam. 
2. Join with a plain seam, backstitched. 

Bottom seam, plain seam, backstitched with raw edge, overcast. 

Top. Turn a hem to the wrong side, i-|" wide. Pin, baste, 
and hem. 

Make the upper line for the casing |" up from the edge of 
the hem with a line of running or combination stitches. 

Leave two openings in the side seam for the casing. 

Run in tape or ribbon and seam the ends together with a 
flat fell finished on the wrong side by hand. 

Square Pincushion 

Materials. Two squares of galatea, sateen, or similar mate- 
rial each 3I" on a side. Fine sawdust or coarse bran for filling. 

Method of making. Place the two right sides together, 
edges and warp threads matching. Pin, baste, and backstitch 

109 



HO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

V ! seam on three sides. In the center of the fourth side 
leave an opening for filling, i-|-" long. Make square corners. 

Crease and baste the cloth to the wrong side on the two 
sides of the opening, exactly in line with the backstitching. 

Turn the cushion, fill, and overhand the two sides of the 
opening together. 

Small Fancy Sewing Bag 

Materials. Plain or figured materials in light-weight cre- 
tonne, upholstery sateen, chambray, linen, or silk ; cardboard 
for the base ; ribbon. 

Method of making. Cut two strips of material 13J" with 
the warp, 9|" with the woof. 

Cut two cardboard circles, each 3 J" in diameter. 

Cut two circles of material, each 3 J" in diameter. 

Cut two pieces of \" tape or ribbon, each 20" long. 

Crease, baste, and hem the sides of the two strips along the 
warp threads with ^" hems. 

Turn a hem across the top of the two pieces 1^" wide. 
Baste and hem. 

Put in the line for the casing, |" above the line of hemming, 
using running or combination stitches. 

Place the two right sides of the two strips together. Baste 
together along the side hems. 

Overhand the folded edges of the side hems from the lower 
edge of the top hem to the bottom of the bag. 

Turn, baste, and hem the bottom of the bag with a -^ ff hem. 

Mark the quarters on the lower edge of bag with pins. 

Gather the bottom of the bag, placing the gathering near the 
outside fold of the hem. 

Base. Gather the circle of cloth J" from the edge. 

Place the cardboard against the wrong side of the gathered 
piece. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION III 

Draw up the gathers, fasten the ends, and with the same 
thread, strand across from one side of the circle to the other, 
to hold the cover evenly and firmly over the cardboards. 

Repeat with the other cardboard. 

Place the two wrong sides of the two parts of the base 
together, warp and woof threads matching on the edge. Over- 
hand the two edges. 

Joining bag and base. Quarter the base and mark with pins. 

Place the right side of the bag against the base, with the 
pins marking the quarters together. 

Adjust gathers. Join with an overhanded seam. 

Ribbons. Draw in a ribbon from one side of the bag. Knot 
or seam the ends. 

Draw in the other ribbon from the other side of the bag. 
Knot or seam the ends. 

Variations. I. Longer strips of material may be used and 
the ends turned up on the inside of the bag for pockets. Make 
the sections of the pockets by lines of chain or featherstitching 
on the right side. 

2. A second base the size of that used for the bag, covered 
and overhanded, may be joined with a thread hinge on one side 
of the base and with ribbons for tying on the opposite side. 
Flannel leaves may be joined to the outside of the bag base 
and a satisfactory needlebook is made. 

Tomato Pincushion 

Materials. Sateen, galatea, silk, wool, batiste, or any soft 
material which does not show pin marks easily (with silk or 
wool, of light weight, use a lining of cambric or soft long cloth) ; 
fine sawdust, coarse bran, or scraps of woolen material, cut fine, 
for the filling of the pincushion ; heavy embroidery cotton or 
silk for stranding ; lighter weight embroidery cotton or silk for 
featherstitching. 



112 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Method of making. Cut two circles of material for the outside 
and lining, each 3 J" in diameter. 

Place linings against wrong side of material. 

Baste the outside and lining together 1" from the edge. 

Mark the centers of each circle of cloth with a white thread 
on the right side. 

Place the two right sides of the circles together and baste 
±" from the edge, leaving an opening i.V for filling the 
cushion. 

Backstitch just outside the \" line of basting. 

Fold the lining and outside toward the wrong side on each 
side of the opening. Follow the curve carefully for these 
turns. Baste along the folded edges. 

Turn the cushion right side out. 

Fill until all wrinkles are smoothed out. Do not make a 
hard cushion. 

Overhand the sides of the opening together. 

With heavy thread strand the cushion by dividing it into 
halves, quarters, and eighths. Begin stranding from the top side 
of the cushion, placing the needle exactly at the center marks. 
Leave a 2" end of thread. To finish, take an extra stitch 
through to the top of the cushion and fasten the two ends with 
knots, a small tassel, or a spider web. 

Decorate the seam line with featherstitching. 

Emery Bag 

Materials. Cloth and lining the same as that used for the 
pincushion ; two pieces of No. 1 ribbon 2" long ; medium 
powdered emery. 

Method of making. Cut a triangular piece, using as the 
base the diagonal of a square i|" on a side. Cut two outside 
pieces with two linings the size of the given triangle. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 1 13 

Baste the outside and linings together. 

Place the two right sides of the cloth together and baste. 
Leave an opening in the center of the base of the triangle -|" 
long. 

Backstitch a \" seam on the three sides. 

Cut down the seams a little at the corners to remove some 
of the bulk. 

Baste the turns along the two sides of the opening. 

Turn and fill with emery. 

Overhand the edges of the opening. 

Hem one end of each ribbon. Overhand a ribbon securely to 
each angle at the two ends of the base of the triangle. Draw 
the ends together and tie the ribbon in a bow. 

Sewing Aprons 

Many kinds of sewing aprons can be made, the type to be 
determined by the experience of the worker, the kind of material 
used, and the time to be spent in the making. 

Shapes. Sewing aprons may be rectangular in shape, finished 
with narrow hems on the sides, and a wide hem, a ruffle, or a deep 
pocket across the bottom. They may be circular in shape, or 
they may be made with slightly bias lines along the sides and 
bottom which form points at the ends of the side lines and a 
point at the bottom. Many variations of these standard shapes 
are possible. 

Size. A sewing apron should cover the lap, extending from 
the waist to a little above the knees, and across the front from 
side to side. 

Waistline finishes. The simplest waist finish is a hem wide 
enough for a casing, through which ribbon or tape may be run. 

A binding is the most common and satisfactory finish. The 
binding may be joined by hand or machine. 



114 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

The width of the finished binding is approximately an inch, 
slightly narrower for fine materials and wider for heavy materials. 

The length of the binding may be the waist measure plus 
the lap. A button and buttonhole are necessary additions to 
this length of binding for fastening. 

The length of the binding may be the waist measure plus 
20", 10" on each end for a short bowknot. 

Binding and strings in one piece. Cut the strip the waist 
measure, plus from 30" to 40" for the bow, half on each end. 
The width should be from 3^" to 4I" '. 

Method of making. Measure at the waistline across the 
front from side to side for the finished width of the apron. 
This measurement should be from 4" to 6" less than the 
measurement across the front from hip line to hip line. 

Fold the ends of the binding strip together and notch the 
center on both sides. 

From the center notch measure on the two sides along one 
edge of the strip one half of the front waist measure of the 
apron. Notch these two points. 

Baste and finish two T 3 g" hems on the wrong side along the 
two ends of the strip. The hems should extend from the waist- 
measure notches to the ends of the strip. Hem across the ends 
of the strip. 

Gather the top of the apron, adjust the fullness, and join the 
binding by hand or machine. The seam and first turn of the 
binding must be the sum of the two turns of the hems, or, in 
other words, the outside fold of the hems must be in line with 
the creased edges of the finished binding. Cut the seams of the 
binding to a satisfactory width. Finish the binding across the 
top of the apron. 

A binding with strings inserted. Cut the strip for the belt 
the waist measure plus two seams in length and the desired 
width. Cut two strings, each 18" or 20" long and 4" wide. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 115 

Notch the center of the binding on the two sides. 

Method of making. Decide the width of the waistline finish 
of the apron by actual measurement on the figure. Measure 
from the center notch of the binding one half the waistline 
finish and place notches on the two sides of the center. 

Notch the center of the top of the apron ; gather the top 
and adjust the fullness. 

For a hand-made binding place the right side of the apron 
against the right side of the binding, center notches together 
and the side hems of the aprons against the side notches on 
the binding. Pin, baste, and backstitch. 

Crease along the line of the backstitching and continue the 
same line to the two ends of the binding. 

Crease the first turn of the binding along the entire edge of 
the second side. Fold the binding in place and crease the 
lengthwise center fold. 

Gather the ends of the strings. Place the right side of the 
string against the right side of the front half of the binding, 
with one hem at the line of the first turn, and the other hem 
at the center crease of the binding. 

Arrange the gathers, pin, baste, and backstitch. 

Repeat with the second string. 

The strings and apron are now seamed to the lower half of 
the binding, with all seams on the wrong side. 

Fold the upper half of the binding down over the seams of 
the lower half, notches and ends together. Pin, baste, and 
hem along the seam lines and overhand the folded edges 
between the seams. 

Apron Patterns 

Measurements required. Width, taken from a point on the 
side in line with the hip across the front to a corresponding 
point on the other side. 



n6 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Length, taken from the waistline to the center of the bend 
of the knee. From this length subtract from 2" to 4" for the 
finished length of the apron. 

Suggestive list of measurements : 

Width, 18". 

Length, 20" minus 4", or 16". 

Pattern (see Fig. 106). 





Fig. 106. The pattern for 
a sewing apron 



Fig. 107. The pattern for 
a sewing apron 



AB is the center fold of the apron, 16". 

BC and AD are one half the width measurement, \ of 18", 
or 9". 

EC is \ the length minus 1!', or 3". 

FD is \ the width measurement minus 1" , or 3L". 

AG is \ n and marks the depth of the waist curve. 

Suggestions. Decrease the measurement from D to F if the 
waist is large in proportion to the hips. 

Increase the depth of the waist curve AG, if there are few 
gathers across the front. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 117 

Curved lines, if sufficiently shallow, may be used instead of 
the straight lines, FE and EB. 

The shape of the apron may be changed by drawing a free- 
hand curve from F to B, cutting off about 2" of the corner at E 
and extending beyond the side and bottom lines (see Fig. 107). 

Pillow Case 

The size of the pillow case should be made in relation to the 
size of the pillow on which it is to be used. 

The average width of the case is at least 2" on the fold wider 
than the pillow. 

The average length of the case is at least 2" and the hem 
more than the pillow. 

The widths required most often are 36", 40", or 42" material, 
and the finished length from 33" to 36". 

The usual width of hem is 3". 

Directions for making. Pull the cloth into shape with the 
edges even when folded. 

Fold the two right sides together. Pin and baste across one 
end and along the selvages. 

Overhand the selvages together. 

Stitch or backstitch the seam across the end. Cut the frayed 
edges from the seam and overcast. 

Turn and baste a 3" hem around the open end of the case. 
Finish the hem by hand or machine. 

Suggestions. A shallow overhanding stitch must be used on 
the side seam, for satisfactory results. 

The overhanding stitches may be made on the right side. 
The appearance is less attractive, but the creasing for ironing 
is somewhat easier. 

Pillow tubing may be used to simplify the making. The 
appearance is satisfactory, but the creasing for ironing is a little 
more difficult. 



n8 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 







f^VSS^S^ 






&>, 



Caution. Do not cut pillow cases with the woof, threads for 
the length of the case. They are much less durable made in 
this way. 

Napkins 

Napkins are usually made of linen or cotton damask woven 
the width of a single napkin and the length of either six 

or twelve napkins. 
There is a com- 
plete design for 
each napkin, and 
these designs are 
separated by a 
heavy thread. This 
heavy thread is 
used as a guide for 
cutting the napkins 
apart for making. 
There are two selvages along the sides of each napkin and 
two raw edges to be hemmed. 

Determine the right side of the damask. The warp threads 
form the overshot, or flush, of the background weave on the 
right side of the damask. The woof threads form the overshot, 
or flush, of the pattern on the right side of the damask. On the 
wrong side the overshot is reversed in background and figure. 
Determine the necessary allowances for the hems. The usual 
finished width of the hem is ±". 

Fold the napkin diagonally from corner to corner and measure 
the sides to make sure that the napkin will be exactly square 
when finished. Cut from the two ends any length that is 
beyond the hem allowance of the square. 

Crease the hems the required width to the wrong side. 
Baste. 



Fig. ioS. Showing damask or napery hemmin< 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 1 19 

Fold the hem back on itself to the right side, making a 
second crease exactly in line with the crease of the first turn 
of the hem. 

Overhand the two folded edges, making a damask, or napery, 
hem. 

Caution. The beauty of the stitch depends on its being 
exactly in line with the warp threads of the napkin. 

The durability of the hem depends on the depth of the 
stitch and the tension of the thread. Avoid a deep stitch or 
tight thread. 

In general, hold the work with the hem toward the body. 

Hemstitched Tea Cloth 

Use one yard of yard-wide linen or Indian head. 

Determine the width of the finished hem, the type of 
hemstitching to be used, and the number of threads to be 
drawn. 

The threads may be drawn the entire length of the hem 
from one edge of the square to the opposite edge. For wide 
hems a more attractive result is obtained by drawing the 
threads to the inside line of the hems and ending each line of 
hemstitching at the same point. 

Directions for making. Let Fig. 109 represent a corner of 
the tea cloth with a finished hem 1 j". 

AB and AC represent the raw edges of the cloth. 

DE and FG represent the first turn of the hem. 

HI and JK represent the outside fold of the finished 
hem. 

LM and NO represent the lines to which the finished hems 
are folded. 

OP and PM represent the lines along which the threads 
are to be drawn. 



120 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



A D 



IT 



F -J.. 



2V 



C 






B 



.0 



K 



Cut a thread on line PM at least \" in toward the center 
from P. Draw the thread to a corresponding point on the 
opposite side. Cut the thread \" in from the corner. 

Cut a thread the same distance from the two corners on 
line PO. Continue on the other sides of the square. 

Draw the re- 
quired number 
of threads on 
each side of the 
square. Draw 
the threads on 
the side of PM 
and PO toward 
the center of 
the cloth. 

With a pin 
unravel and pick 
out the threads 
back to the 
corner. 

Repeat on the 
two sides of the 
other corners. 
Miter the four corners and finish (see p. 72). 
Fold and baste the hems on the four sides of the cloth. 
At the corners, fold back the \" ends of threads and tuck 
them under the first turn of the hem. 

These V' thread ends folded back make a stronger, more 
attractive corner which is more quickly made than a corner 
in which the threads are cut at point P and corresponding 
points. 

Hemstitch the hems. 






--IP O 



E 



M 



Fig. 109. Diagram showing the creased lines on the 
corner of a tea cloth which is to be hemstitched 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 



121 



Kimono Nightgown 



This type of nightgown is made with low neck and short 
sleeves. It is slipped on over the head and shoulders ; the 
size of the gown around under the arm must be as large 
as the measurement taken around the 
shoulders. 

Measurements and how to take 
them. Length. Measure from the top 
of the shoulder near the neck to the 
floor in front, and from the same point 
on the shoulder to the floor in the back. 
Add the two lengths, divide by two 
to find a common length to use for 
the gown. 

Around the shoiilders. Measure in 
a line parallel to the floor, taking a 
close measure. 

Arms eye. Take a close measure 
around the armseye well up on the 
shoulder. 

Bust. Take the measure over the 
largest part of the bust. 

Sleeve length. Measure on the out- 
stretched arms in line with the 
shoulders from one elbow across the 
back of the neck to the other elbow. 

Suggestive list of measurements and allowances : 

Length, 50". 

Around the shoulders, 37". Add 2" for ease, 39". 

Armseye, 12." Add 4" for comfort, 16" . 

Bust, 34". 

Lower edge, 2 times the bust, plus 8", j6" . 




Fig. 1 10. A kimono night- 
gown pattern 



122 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Elbow to elbow, 30". Subtract 4" for short sleeves, 26". 

Pattern. Work directly on the cloth. Tear off a piece of 
cloth the required length. To find the necessary amount, sub- 
tract from the length measurement the number of inches that 
the gown is to be finished from the floor ; add the hem allow- 
ance, from i±" to 3"; subtract the height of the heels, if the 
measures were taken with the shoes on ; add at least 2" for 
shrinking. This total multiplied by 2 will give the cutting 
length for the front and the back. 

Use cloth at least 36" wide. 

Pull the cloth in line. 

Make one lengthwise fold with selvages together evenly. 

Make one crosswise fold with ends together evenly. 

Line AB of Fig. 1 10 represents the lengthwise fold of cloth, 

50". 

Line AF represents the crosswise folds. 
Place pins for the points and connect the points with light 
pencil lines. 

AC is the depth of the front neck curve, 5". 

AD is the depth of the back neck curve, 4" . 

AE is the width of the neck curve, 5". 

AF'is ^ the sleeve length measurement, 13". 

AG is \ the required measurement around the shoulders, 

9f". 

FH and Glare \ the armseye measure, 8". 

BJ'is i the lower edge measure, 19" '. 

JL is the depth of the curve of the bottom line at the side 
seam, ii". 

IK is the depth of the underarm curve on the underarm 
line, 3J". 

HI is the width of the underarm curve on the sleeve 
line, 3". 

Add seam allowances and cut the gown. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 123 

In cutting the neck curves, cut through all thicknesses along 
the back neck curve, DE. Open out the fold and cut the front 
curve along CE. 

Making. Underarm seams, plain or narrow French seams. 

Neck and sleeves may be finished by one of a variety of 
methods, either by hand or machine : 

1. The edges may be finished with an i" hem or with a 
|" bias facing or binding. Overhand lace to the finished edge 
of hem, facing, or binding. 

2. Join an embroidery edge to the neck and sleeves with a 
plain seam on the right side. Cover the seam with bias seam 
tape, finishing braid, etc. 

The seam may be on the wrong side and covered with a 
bias facing. 

3. Join an embroidery edge to the neck and sleeves with a 
flat fell on the right side. 

Ribbon beading or a casing may be used to draw up the 
fullness, or the fullness may be gathered and confined by the 
trimming. 

Hem the bottom of the gown (see p. 54). 

Suggestions. Groups of narrow tucks, parallel with the front 
fold may be placed in the cloth across the neck lines before 
cutting. They should extend from 2" to 4" below the neck 
curve, back and front. 

Make an extra allowance between the points A and G and 
place tucks over the shoulders between E and G on the two 
sides. The finished tucks should extend almost to the line of 
H, both back and front. 

With an extra allowance from A to G, confine the fullness 
across the front with a band of smocking or shirring. A cor- 
responding amount of fullness must be confined across the 
back by the tucks. 



124 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Dutch Cooking Cap 



b 




c 



B 



There are many types of cap that may be chosen for use in 
the cooking class. In most cases a cap which covers the hair 
completely is the one desired. The Dutch cap fulfills this 
requirement. 

Material to be used. Use any thin, crisp material which will 
launder easily ; as light-weight apron lawn or white dimity. 

Measurements. Depth. Measure from 
the hair line on the forehead over the 
crown to the hair line at the back. 

Width. Measure from a point just 
in front of one ear across the back 
to the corresponding point on the 
other side. 

Length of binding. Measure from 
the lobe of one ear around the front 
hair line to a corresponding point on 
the other side. 

Suggested measurements : 
Depth, 16". 
Width, 15". 

Length of binding, 14". 
Size of binding : length, according to measurement, plus 
two seams ; width, two times 3", plus two seams. 

Pattern. AB is the center lengthwise fold of the cap, 16". 
A C and BD are \ the width measurement, j\". 
FC and CE are \ of the length measurement, 5L". 
The curve from F to E must be a full outward curve. 
Add a seam allowance along AFED. 
Add an allowance for a \" hem along BD. 
Making. Turn and finish a \" hem along BD. 
Notch the center front of the cap at A. 



D 



Fig. in. Dutch cooking- 
cap pattern 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 1 25 

Gather the outer edge of the cap from D around the curve 
to A and around the second side. 

Notch the center of the two sides of the binding. 

Fold the two right sides of the binding together lengthwise 
and join the ends with plain seams. 

Turn the binding, crease, and baste along the end seams 
and the lengthwise fold. 

Join the binding to the gathered edge of the cap, either by 
hand or machine. Match center notches. 

Use the ^" hem across the back as a casing. Make button- 
holes on the inside of the hem at the two ends near the seam 
of the binding. Run in an elastic at least 6" less than the 
width measurement, and fasten both ends securely to the wrong 
side of the cap over the binding seam. 

A buttonhole may be made in the center of the inside of the 
hem. Use two pieces of tape. Run the tape from the center 
buttonhole to the ends of the hem before the binding is put 
on. Secure these tape ends in the seam which joins the binding 
to the cap. Draw up the ends of the tape through the center 
buttonhole and tie. 

Kimono Cooking Apron 

Measurements and allowances. Length. Measure from the 
top of the shoulder near the neck to the bottom of the skirt. 
Add an allowance for shrinkage, growth of the wearer, and hem. 

Around the shoulders. Take a close measure. 

Arms eye. Take a close measure around the armseye well up 
on the shoulder. Add 2" for comfort. 

Bust. Take the measure around the largest part of the bust. 

Lower edge. Take two times the bust measure plus 8", 
more or less, according to conditions. The length of the 
dress and the fullness of the dress skirt will influence the 
amount added. 



126 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Sleeve length. Measure from the back of the neck to the 
end of the shoulder, down the arm to the wrist : 

Suggestive list : 
Length, 45". 
Around shoulders, 37". 
Armseye, 15" plus 2", 17". 
Bust, 32". 

Lower edge, 2 times 32" plus 
8", 72". 

Sleeve length, 23". 
Pattern. Tear a length of ma- 
terial according to measurements 
and allowances (see nightgown 
allowances, p. 121). 

Pull the cloth into line. 
Fold the selvages together with 
a lengthwise fold. 

Fold the ends together with a 
crosswise fold. 

AB is the front fold, 45". 
AC is the crosswise fold and 
the sleeve length, 23". 
AD is the depth of the front neck curve, 4". 
AE is the depth of the back neck curve, 3". 
AF is the width of the neck curve, 4" . 
AG is \ of the measurement around the shoulders, g\" . 
GH is i the armseye measure, 8J". 
CI is 2" less than GH. 

C/is a i±" allowance for the back of the sleeve. • 
BM\s \ the lower edge measure, 18". 
MN is the depth of the curve at the side seam, ij". 
HK is the depth of the underarm curve on the underarm 
seam, 3 J". 




Fig. 112. A kimono cooking- 
apron pattern 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 1 27 

HL is the width of the underarm curve on the sleeve 
seam, 3". 

Making. Allow for seams and cut apron. 

Seams. Underarm, plain or narrow French seams ; sleeve 
piecings, narrow plain or narrow French seams. 

Neck curve. Finish with a narrow bias facing on the wrong 
side or a wide, fitted facing on the right side. 

The neck may be cut square and finished with a narrow 
bias facing on the wrong side or a wide, fitted facing on the 
right side. 

Cut along the center back fold for the opening. Turn 1" 
hems along the two sides of the back opening for buttons and 
buttonholes. 

Gather the ends of the sleeves and finish with a binding. 
The binding should be finished 1 " larger than the hand measure 
and 1" wide. 

Finish the bottom hem 1^" to 3" in width. 

A belt and one or two pockets may be added. 



Child's Drawers 

For comfort and durability children's drawers must be made 
with a low seat line and sufficient fullness to prevent any strain 
on the garment. 

Measurements and how to take them. Length. Measure 
from the waistline just in front of the hip to the center of the 
bend of the knee. Make no subtractions from this measure- 
ment for the finish above the knee. Draw the pattern, using 
this measurement for the right placing of the seat line. 

Hip. Take a loose measure around the hip just below the 
hip bone. 

Suggestive measures: 

Length, 20". 



128 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Hip, 36". 
Pattern. 

measure, 20' 



AB on the fold of the paper is the length 



AC is ± oi AB. 

Z>is 1 1" below C. 

AE is \ the hip 
measure, plus 2" of 
fullness, 11". 

DF is \ the hip 
measure, 18". 

BG is \ the hip 
measure, plus 2" of 
fullness, 11". 

Continue EF in di- 
rection of H, 1 "above 
AE, for the front 
extension ; continue 
AE in direction of 7, 
2" beyond E, for the 
back fullness ; con- 
tinue FI'm direction 
of/, 3 J" above /, for 
the back extension. 




Fig. 113. The pattern for child's drawers 



K marks the bisection of GF. 

KL marks the y depth of the leg curve. 

AB, BG, GLF, FEH, and AH are the lines of the front. 

AB, BG, GLF, FJJ, and AJ are the lines of the back. 

Variation of lines. The seat line, DF, may be placed more 
than iV' below the center. If the fullness is decreased and 
the front and back extension decreased, the seat line must be 
lowered. 

The amount of fullness added to \ the hip measure at the 
waistline (AE) and at the bottom of the leg (BG) may be 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 



129 



B 



increased or decreased. If the seat line is sufficiently low, it 
may be less than ^ the hip measure. 

The front extension (EH) may be increased and the back 
extension (If) may be decreased. 

The amount of front and back fullness may be the same. 

The front and back extension may be the same. 

Making. Cut the pattern according to the outline, making 
the necessary seam allowances. 

Decide on the number of 
inches that the drawers are to 
be finished above the knee. 
Calculate the allowances or 
subtractions in length for the 
making. 

Measure the required length 
from the waistline on AB 
and fold back the unneces- 
sary amount at the bottom of 
the pattern. 

Cut the placket line on AB the required length from A. If 
the drawers are to be buttoned on a waist, use two plackets ; 
if they are to be buttoned around the waist, use one (for length 
of plackets, see p. 74). 

Placket (see pp. 76, 77). Use the type of placket best suited 
to the garment and to the experience of the worker. 

lower edge finish. The bottom of the leg may be finished 
with a hem. To provide sufficient material for the side allow- 
ance of the hem, crease the hem before cutting the garment, 
place the edge of the pattern on the fold of the hem. The 
diagram (Fig. 114) shows the necessary allowance for the out- 
ward curve of the hem. 

Tucks (see pp. 64-65), ruffles (see pp. 66-68), or a facing 
(see pp. 62-64) may be used for the lower edge finish. 



Fig. 114. Diagram showing the 
necessary allowance for the out- 
ward curve of a hem. A BCD is the 
hem allowance 



130 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Child's Bloomers 

The same measurements are taken for the bloomers as for 
the drawers (see p. 127). 

Suggestive list : 
Length, 20" . 
Hip, 36". 
Pattern. AB is 
measured on the fold 
of the paper, 20". 

C marks the bi- 
section of AB. 

D is ii" below the 
center of AB. 

AE is \ the hip 
measure, plus 3" full- 
ness, 12". 

DF is \ the hip 
measure. 

BG is \ the hip 
measure, plus 4" full- 
ness, 13". 

EH is the continu- 
ation of BE, 2" above 
E, front and back 
extension. 
Continue AB 4" below B and draw IJ \ the hip measure 
plus 4" for the lower edge of the bloomer leg. 
K marks the bisection of FJ. 
KL marks the j-" depth of the leg curve. 
Variations. Other proportions may be used if the relation 
of the seat line, the front and back extension, and the fullness 
are considered. 




Fig. 115. Pattern for child's bloomers 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 



131 



Making. The seams, placket, and waist finish may be the 
same as for the drawers (see p. 129). An inch hem may be 
used as the lower edge 
finish and form a casing 
for the elastic. 

Bloomers may be made 
without plackets, the waist- 
line finished with a bind- 
ing |" to 1" in width, 
making a casing for elastic. 

If the material is bulky 
and more than an average 
amount of fullness added 
at the bottom of the leg, 
a binding is a satisfactory 
finish. Gather the bottom 
of the leg and finish with 
an inch binding that is 
somewhat longer than the 
leg measure. The binding 
forms a casing for the 

elastic. This finish is less FlG ii6 A bloomer pattem for an 

bulky than the hem. older girl 




Bloomers for Older Girls 

Measurements. Take the measures as for the drawers. 

Suggestive list : 

Length, 22 J". 

Hip, 40". 

Pattern. AB, on a fold of paper, is the length, 22J". 

C marks the bisection of AB. 

D is 4f " below C. 



I 3 2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

AE is \ the hip measure, plus i" fullness. 

DF is A the hip measure, minus 5". 

BG is X the hip measure, plus 2". 

I is 2 n below i? for the added bloomer length. 

IJ is ] the hip measure, plus 2". 

K marks the bisection of FJ. 

KL marks the depth of the leg curve, \" . 

EH is the ii" extension above E and is a continuation 
of EF. 

Making. The methods suggested for the child's bloomers 
may be used. With the decrease in fullness at the waist and 
lower edge narrower casings can be used. 

Infant's Slip 

The cutting and making of the infant's slip is an interesting 
and profitable school problem. The material chosen for the 
garment is soft and fine ; as nainsook, batiste, fine dimity, etc. 
The seams are short, if the garment is to be made by hand, 
and the required construction offers a satisfactory variety with 
that used on the personal garments. 

Pattern. The purchase of a pattern for this simple garment 
is unnecessary. The lines are so simple that the pattern can 
be drawn directly on the cloth. 

Suggestive measurements : 

Length, 26". 

Size around the bottom, 48". 

Armseye, 8". 

Around the shoulders, 20" plus 4" for ease. 

Length of sleeve from back of neck, 11". 

Pattern. Calculate the front and back lengths with hem 
allowance. 

Fold the cloth lengthwise with selvages together. 

Fold the cloth crosswise with the ends together. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 



133 



AB is measured on the lengthwise fold, 26" plus hem 
allowance. 

AC is measured on the crosswise fold, the sleeve length, 1 1". 

AD is the depth of the front neck curve, ii". 

AE is the depth of the back 
neck curve, 1". 

AF is the width of the neck 
curve, i|". 

AG is \ of the measurement 
around the shoulders plus the 
required fullness, 6". 

GH is i the armseye, 4". 

BI is \ the size around the 
bottom, 12". 

//is 1 " for the upward curve of 
the lower edge at the side seam. 

CA'is 31". 

CL is a y extension for the 
end of the sleeve. 

LK is the lower edge of the 
sleeve. 

M and N mark the points of 
the underarm curve, each |" 
from H. 

Making. Cut with seam and 
hem allowances. 

Cut the placket line on a fold \" to the left of the center 
back fold, 9I-" from the neck. 

Make a placket with the upper lap finished with a f " facing 
and the under lap, with a binding finished |" wide. Finish 
across the end of the placket with two lines of backstitching. 

The neck may be finished with a binding \" wide to which a 
very narrow edge of lace is overhanded. This binding may be 




B\ 

Fig. 117. Pattern for an infant's slip 



134 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

used as a casing through which bobbin tape is run. Make a 
buttonhole through the outside of the binding at each end in 
line with the placket lap. Run the ends of the bobbin tape 
through these buttonholes. 

Gather the ends of the sleeves and finish each with a 
binding \" wide and 6" long. Overhand an edge of lace 
to the binding. 

Finish the bottom of the slip with a hem 1 1" to 2l" wide. 

Decorations. Small tucks may be placed over the shoulders 
between F and G. 

Featherstitching may be used to decorate and finish the 
bindings and the hem. 

A fine design of French embroidery may be worked across 
the center front. 

Infant's Gertrude 

Decide on the length, the size around the bottom, and the 
width across the front to the underarm. 

Suggestive list of measures : 

Length, 25". 

Front width, 1 1 n . 

Size around the bottom, 44". 

Pattern. Front. 

AB is the length of the garment, 25". 

AC and BD are \ of the front width, 5I". 

AE is the depth of the front neck curve, 2J". 

AF is the width of the front neck curve, 2±". 

CG is the measurement down from C for the slant of the 
shoulder line, f". 

FG is the shoulder slant. 

FH is the shoulder length, i-|". 

GI is the depth of the arm curve, 3". 

HI is a full, deep curve for the armseye, drawn freehand. 



STITCHES AND CONSTRUCTION 135 

BJ is \ the size around the bottom, n". 

JK'vs, the measure of the upward curve at the side seam, i±". 

BK is the lower edge. 

Pattern. Back. 

ab is the length, 25". 

ac and bd are 1 the back width, 5 y . 

ae 

of 

c g 

fg 
fh 

gi 

hi 



is the depth of the back neck curve, il". 
is the width of the back neck curve, 2±". 
is the depth of the shoulder slant, |". 
is the shoulder slant, 
is the shoulder length, i±". 
is the depth of the back arm curve, 3". 
is the back arm curve, drawn freehand. 
bj is \ the size around the bottom, 11". 
jk is the measure of the upward curve at the side seam, 1 J". 
bk is the lower edge of the back. 

fl and hm are extensions of the back shoulder straps, 1^". 
Itn or no may be used for the outline of the tab. 
Making. Allow for seams and for a i|" hem at the bottom. 
Finish the seams according to the directions for one type of 
flannel seams (see pp. 51-52). 

Turn the hem and finish with a method which corresponds 
with the type of seam finish chosen. 

Neck and armseye finish. If flannel is used for the garment, 
choose a firm quality of wash silk for the neck and armseye 
finish. If outing flannel is used choose firm, soft nainsook 
or cambric. 

Reenforce the front and back shoulder tabs on the wrong side 
with silk or cotton to make sufficiently strong for the fastenings. 
Choose from the following methods : 

1. A narrow bias facing on the wrong side finished \" or J" 
may be finished on the wrong side with the hemming stitch and 
decorated on the right side with featherstitching. 



136 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



2. Finish with a bias binding on the wrong side, \" for the 
finished width. 

3. Use a \" woven silk tape or galloon instead of the bias 
strip for a binding. This is a straight strip and does not fit 





Fig. 118. The front of an 
infant's Gertrude 



Fig. 119. The back of an 
infant's Gertrude 



around the curves smoothly. Hem on the wrong side and 
featherstitch on the right side to hold the binding flat. 

Fastening of the tabs. The front or the back shoulder 
strap may be extended for the lap. Fasten the tabs on each 
shoulder with one or two tiny buttons and buttonholes or with 
snap fasteners. 



CHAPTER VIII 

MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 
Cotton 

The cotton plant grows on plantations in warm countries. 
Most of the cotton used in the world is raised in the United 
States, where the two principal varieties are short-staple cotton 
or cotton having short fibers, and long-staple cotton having 
long fibers. The short-staple or upland cotton, which is chiefly 
raised, grows on a plant from two to three feet in height. 
Long-staple or sea-island cotton grows fifteen to twenty feet 
high, and is found on the islands near the coast of the South- 
ern states. Sea-island cotton is much more valuable than 
upland cotton. 

The seed is sown in March and April, and early in June 
the plant begins to bloom. The blossom resembles that of the 
hollyhock. After the flowers fall, the pods or bolls grow rapidly 
and when ripe burst open, showing the fleecy cotton ready for 
picking, which is done by hand or by a machine. 

The cotton is separated from the seeds by being run through 
the cotton gin, then baled, and shipped to the manufacturers. 
The bale is opened, and the cotton is put through a beater and 
picker-machine, which loosens the matted fibers, and separates 
a portion of the sand and leaves. It is subjected to a second 
and sometimes a third process of picking, which forms it into 
laps, or rolls of cotton similar to cotton batting. 

These laps are taken to the carding machines, where they 
are carded, and sometimes combed, until the fibers become suffi- 
ciently clean and even ; they are then called slivers. The slivers 

137 



138 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

pass to the drawing machine, where they are drawn even and 
parallel, and several of them are united into one. Then they 
are twisted on the roving frames into rovings, which are wound 
upon bobbins. They are next spun into yarn, by passing the 
rovings through the spinning machines. 

When thread is to be made, the yarn is doubled and twisted 
more than for weaving into cloth, as greater strength is required. 
It is then reeled off into loose hanks for washing, bleaching, 
and dyeing, after which comes the reeling onto bobbins and 
the spooling. In spooling, after the machine-tender has set the 
spool on the spindle and attached the end of the thread from 
the bobbin, the machine does the rest. It runs the thread on 
evenly, without overlapping or leaving a hairbreadth between, 
and even adjusts its work with the same precision to the widen- 
ing of the spool with every layer of thread. It runs on exactly 
the required amount, and at the right time and place cuts the 
fine slit in the edge of the spool, draws the end of thread 
tightly into the slit, cuts it off, and drops the finished spool 
into a tray. The spools are labeled and packed in boxes 
containing a dozen each. 

If the yarn is to be woven into cloth, the warp is prepared on 
one machine and the woof on another, the warp being made 
stronger than the woof, as a greater strain comes on it. Then 
they are woven on the loom, great care being taken that every 
thread is kept in its proper position. In weaving, the warp 
threads are first passed from the warp beam at the back of the 
loom to the cloth beam in front, on which the cloth is to be 
wound. Plain weaving is done by passing the woof, in a shuttle, 
alternately over and under each thread of the warp ; this may 
be readily discerned by unraveling a piece of cotton cloth. 
Twilled cloth is woven by varying the number of threads passed 
over or taken up by the woof. In piled cloth, like velvet, extra 
warp threads are woven in with the woof, making loops, which 



MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 139 

are afterwards cut and sheared evenly. Mixed cloth is woven 
with the warp of one color and the woof of another. In striped 
cloth the warp is of two or more different colors, and in checked 
cloth the warp and woof are both of two colors, one set of 
stripes crossing another. 

White cloth is bleached after weaving. When percale is 
made, the cloth is singed, then bleached, and the coloring applied 
by a printing machine. 

Wool 

Wool is obtained chiefly from the sheep, also from the alpaca, 
angora, and cashmere goat. It is brought mainly from Australia, 
South Africa, and South America, but the highest grade is 
obtained from the merinos of Saxony and Silesia. 

Wool consists of wavy fibers varying from six to twelve 
inches in length, and differing in grade. Each fiber is covered 
with little sawlike teeth or scales overlying each other, and 
sticking out wherever a bend occurs. The points of the scales 
are exceedingly small, but when spun they fit into each other 
and keep the thread from untwisting. 

After the wool has been sheared from the sheep, which is 
done yearly, it is separated according to fineness and length 
of fiber into sorts, by experienced men called sorters. Then, as 
it is full of grease and dirt, it is scoured, or washed, until most 
of the impurities are removed. After scouring, the wool is 
dried, and it is then ready for further processes. At this point 
the question must be decided whether the fabric to be manu- 
factured is to be a woolen or a worsted. 

We will first describe the method of manufacturing woolens. 
After the wool is scoured, it is passed through a willowing 
machine in order to remove any dirt or dust that may still 
adhere to it, and also to break up the matted pieces. Then it 
is carded, by which process the wool is thoroughly cleaned 



140 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

from sticks and lumps, and the fibers are torn apart and then 
interlaced with each other, coming out in the form of a loose 
rope called a sliver, in which the separate fibers stand in an 
infinite variety of positions with reference to each other. If 
the fabric is to be wool-dyed, the next process is the dyeing, 
after which it is drawn down by drawing, roving, and spinning 
frames into a woolen yarn. 

If greater strength is required, two or more strands are 
twisted together making a woolen thread ready for the loom. 
If the fabric is to be yarn-dyed the dyeing process occurs at 
this stage. The yarn is now woven into cloth. It is fulled by 
being soaked in hot, soapy water, and subjected to heavy pres- 
sure, thus causing the fibers to felt together and the cloth to 
shrink in width. The fabric is now compact and firm, and is 
ready for the finishing processes. The fibers are loosened and 
raised to form a nap by passing the surface of the cloth over 
the sharp little hooks of the teasel which are set in rollers. 
(Teasels are the flower heads of a variety of thistle-like plants.) 
Then the cloth is sheared to give a uniform surface, and it is 
passed between steam rollers in order to receive the smooth, 
glossy finish that renders it attractive. 

The processes used in making a worsted fabric are different 
from those just described in several respects. The object is to 
make a yarn in which the fibers shall be drawn out parallel to 
each other, and then twisted to the required degree. 

The wool is put through various machines to straighten out 
the fibers, and to take out those that are too short for use. 
Long wools are put through preparers ; shorter wools are passed 
through carding machines, both of which bring the wool into a 
loose sliver, which, after being backwashed and slightly oiled, 
is passed through a combing machine, where the short fibers, 
called noils, are combed out, and there is formed a firm, smooth, 
clean rope made up of long, parallel fibers loosely adhering to 



MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 141 

each other. This rope is wound into balls or wool tops, about 
one foot in diameter. Then follow the processes of drawing, 
roving, spinning, and twisting, care being taken to preserve the 
substantial parallel relation of the fibers to each other, until a 
smooth, level yarn is formed, ready for weaving into cloth. 

After the cloth is woven it is dyed, if that has not been done 
in the yarn, and it is then ready for the finishing, which differs 
slightly from the method pursued in making woolens. The 
cloth is not teaseled, and is only slightly fulled, sometimes not 
at all. It is singed by being passed at a high rate of speed 
over a hot roller, is steamed, stretched, and pressed between 
rollers, and is then put up in proper shape for sale. 

Linen 

Linen thread and cloth are made from the fibers of the flax 
plant. The coverings in which the Egyptian mummies have 
been found enveloped prove that flax has been used from the 
remotest times in the manufacture of linen cloth. In the Brit- 
ish Museum pieces of linen four thousand years old may be 
seen. The best qualities of flax come from France and The 
Netherlands. 

The plant grows to a height of two or three feet, and bears 
delicate blue flowers. The stalks of the plant are hollow and 
consist of a woody portion called the boon and a fibrous por- 
tion from which the thread is made. The seeds furnish linseed 
oil — used for mixing paints. If a fine fiber is desired, the stalks 
are pulled up by the roots, when the leaves begin to fall off and 
the bottom of the stalks become yellow. By waiting until the 
seeds are ripe, a coarser fiber and seeds for oil are obtained. 

After being dried in the sun the seeds are removed, and 
the stalks soaked, or retted, in water, to loosen the fibers from 
the boon. The fibers are dried and run through rollers, which 
break the boon. Then they are combed out or disentangled, 



I 4 2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

and the wood removed by the scutching machine. The flax, 
now ready for the mill, is put through the hackling machine, 
where the short fibers are separated from the long. The long 
fibers are called line and go through the spread-board, while 
the short fibers, called tow, pass through the carding machine, 
both varieties entering cans, called sliver cans. The sliver then 
passes through a number of drawing frames, and after being 
doubled and drawn out it goes to the roving frame, where it 
is again drawn out, then twisted and wound onto bobbins. The 
rovings are spun on the spinning frames and reduced to yarn, 
which is either woven into cloth or twisted into thread. The 
linen is bleached for white goods, or dyed for colored. 
During all the operations the fibers must be kept damp. 

Silk 

There is no more interesting subject than the source and 
manufacture of silk. The manufacture of silk doubtless origi- 
nated in China. Although some silkworms are raised in this 
country, the greater part of the raw silk is imported from China 
and Europe. 

The silkworm moth lays the eggs from which the silkworms 
are hatched, and they in turn become moths. The moth is 
about an inch long, having white wings marked with broad 
pale-brown bars. One moth lays from three hundred to seven 
hundred eggs, so small that it takes three or four hundred of 
them to cover a space as large as a silver dollar. In a warm, 
dry temperature the eggs will hatch in a few days. The young 
silkworm or caterpillar is dark colored, and not more than a 
quarter of an inch in length. When full grown the worm is 
about three inches long ; the body is made up of twelve joints, 
and it has sixteen legs. It reaches maturity in about a month, 
and during this time feeds upon the leaves of the mulberry 
tree, requiring constant feeding ; it also changes its skin four 



MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 143 

times. When about to spin its cocoon on some convenient 
branch or roll of paper, it ceases to eat. 

The silk is produced from two small bags filled with a liquid 
gum. From each bag comes a slender tube, and the two unite 
into one near the mouth, through which the gum is drawn and 
spun into silk ; thus each fiber of silk, when examined under 
a microscope, is seen to consist of two strands, one from each 
bag. The silkworm first makes an outer covering of coarse 
fibers called floss silk, then, bending itself like a horseshoe, 
and moving its head from one point to another, it entirely 
surrounds the body with silk, not spun regularly around the 
cocoon, but back and forth, so that sometimes yards may be 
unwound without turning over the cocoon. The inner silk is 
the finest. The cocoon is completed in a few days, and is 
about the size of a pigeon's egg. If left undisturbed, in two 
or three weeks the moth will eat its way through the cocoon, 
and in so doing break and injure the silk ; to prevent this, it 
is stifled or killed by heat. 

Each cocoon contains about one fourth of a mile of thread, as 
fine as a cobweb, and it takes three thousand cocoons to make 
a pound of silk. The cocoons are first sorted, and the outside 
threads removed. They are next placed in tepid water, where they 
are stirred until the ends of four or five threads are found and 
brought together into a single thread, which is wound onto a reel. 

The silk, after being cleaned (all the knots or obstructions re- 
moved) and dried, is ready to be colored and woven into fabric 
on the loom. Silk is the strongest of all fibers used for weaving. 

The reeling or spinning of the silk is very difficult, as the 
cocoons differ in color, quality, and length. The silk on the 
outside of the cocoon and that near the chrysalis is inferior 
and broken ; so this, with that from cocoons which have been 
injured, is made into what is called spun silk. Raw silk is 
made from the perfect cocoons. 



144 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

Scissors and Shears 

Scissors and shears are made in various sizes and styles ; 
strictly speaking, every pair over six inches in length should 
be called shears. They may be made entirely of steel, but 
in this country malleable iron with steel for the inside edges 
is used most often. Nearly all the work is done by hand, but 
the process of making depends somewhat upon the size. Each 
pair passes through the hands of fifty or sixty workmen before 
completion. 

The iron is first melted at the foundry and run into molds 
of the different shapes desired. The steel is run into thin 
sheets, which are cut into strips, and these are punched and 
riveted to the iron by one blow of a hammer. These pieces 
are then dipped in water and again in powdered borax, to 
cleanse the surfaces of the iron and steel, which would not 
unite without this process. After being heated red hot in a 
furnace, the two metals are welded together and shaped by 
a die or stamp. 

A large pair of shears is used to trim the steel that pro- 
trudes over the blades ; after which the blades pass through 
the hands of a number of workmen, each doing his part 
towards shaping the shears. They are hardened by being 
plunged while red hot into a tank of cold water, which renders 
them very brittle. To remedy the brittleness they are put on 
a plate and again heated, until the workman knows by the 
color that they are properly tempered or toughened. 

After various processes, in one of which the hole for the 
screw is drilled, a temporary screw is put in, and the points 
and handles are adjusted. This screw is taken out and the blades 
are numbered, in order that they may be kept in pairs. They 
are ground on a round stone, making a slight hollow on the 
surface of the blades ; this forms an edge to cut on. A small 



MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 145 

elevation is also made close behind the screw, which causes the 
blades to cant more and more towards each other as they are 
closed. Then the handles are japanned or nickelplated, and the 
blades are polished on emery wheels. After this they are taken 
to a stamping machine, where the maker's name is put on them. 
Then the edges of the blades are sharpened on fine emery 
wheels, the screw is put in, and the blades are adjusted. 

Lastly they are carefully inspected, packed in boxes, and are 
ready for market. 

Needles 

Needles have been used by the women of every country, in 
every age. Bronze needles have been found in Egyptian tombs, 
and we have mention of them in the early history of the Greeks 
and Romans. 

The common sewing needle is made from steel wire and is 
manufactured almost exclusively in England. Although simple 
in form, a needle passes through the hands of a hundred work- 
men before completion. The wire is cut from coils into pieces 
or blanks of twice the required length cf the needle. After 
being straightened, the blanks are ground to a point at both 
ends, and flattened in the middle ; on this flattened surface 
the groove for the thread is made, also two small indentations 
to mark the places for the eyes, which are drilled by machinery. 
The lengths are now separated, and the needles are hardened 
by being heated and dipped in oil ; then they are tempered by 
again being slowly heated and cooled. After being scoured, 
rounded, and polished, they are sorted and folded in papers, 
which, when labeled, are put up in packages. 

Machine needles are manufactured in this country by machines 
invented for the purpose. The work is similar to that done 
on the common needle, machines being substituted for part of 
the hand labor and the number of processes decreased. 



146 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Pins 



Pins similar to those now in use were not known in ancient 
times, when thorns, and bone, wooden, gold, or silver skewers 
were used to fasten the clothing. In the sixteenth century, 
when first manufactured, they were so expensive that only the 
rich could afford to buy them ; when first made in the United 
States, a paper of pins cost one dollar. 

Pins are now manufactured by machines and are made in 
many sizes. The wire, after being reduced to the proper size 
and condition, is run through a machine, which cuts it into 
the required length, forms the head, and also sharpens the 
point and tempers it. The pins are next cleaned, and the im- 
perfect ones thrown out by machinery. The third machine 
rolls them until they are bright and smooth. Another machine 
sticks them into the paper, and, after being inspected under 
a magnifying glass, they are ready for market. A machine 
has been invented which does the entire work. Black pins are 
prepared by japanning the common pins. 

Thimbles 

Thimbles have been in use only about two hundred years. 
They are made of metal or celluloid, with either an open or a 
closed top. The indentations on the surface are made to hold 
the head of the needle firmly. 

In manufacturing metal thimbles, a thin disk, or blank, about 
the size of a silver half dollar, is first cut from sheet metal and 
is then drawn into a cap. This cap is heated and tapered, 
and the edges rolled ; the top and then the sides* are indented, 
and it is completed by being polished and plated. 



MORE ABOUT CLOTH AND TOOLS 147 

Buttons 

Buttons are made from many materials, and in many sizes 
and shapes. The cheapest are made of porcelain, which is 
pressed into molds and baked. 

Vegetable ivory buttons are made from the seeds of the 
ivory plant. The plant grows on the Isthmus of Panama, and 
resembles a palm. The fruit is round, from eight to twelve 
inches in diameter, and weighs about twenty-five pounds. It 
is composed of six or seven portions, each portion containing 
from six to nine seeds. These seeds, when ripe, are pure 
white, free from veins or any dots, and are about two inches 
in diameter. The substance is so hard that it can be readily 
turned in the lathe. 

The seeds or nuts are sawed into slabs, from which the 
buttons are turned. The next operation is that of drilling 
the holes ; some buttons are drilled with four holes, others 
with two holes, while others are not drilled, but have what is 
called a self-shank. 

After being dyed or colored they are finished by polishing 
and mottling. Horn and bone buttons are made in a similar 
manner. 

Cloth-covered buttons. In the manufacture of cloth-covered 
buttons, two round pieces of cloth, one for the covering and 
one for the shank, two collets of tin, and a thick paper filling 
are used. The tuft of strong linen is placed in the under 
collet, and a die or stamp comes down and presses the tuft 
through the collet, making the flexible shank by which the 
button is sewed on. The cloth covering is then placed on the 
upper collet, or shell, and pressed up into a die. Just before 
the die holding the upper part of the button is pressed into 
the one holding the under part, the paper filling is put in. 
As the dies come together they turn the edge of the shell over 



148 * SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 

the collet, and the different parts are thus held strongly 
together and the button is finished. 

Flat metal buttons. The four-holed metal button is manu- 
factured from collets or disks cut from sheet metal. The 
under collet of the button is cut from tin, the upper collet 
from brass. Then the collets are shaped and the four holes 
punched by a machine. A piece of strawboard of the same 
form is prepared, and the three pieces are bound together by 
solidly lapping the edge of the brass or larger collet over the 
other two. 

Hooks and Eyes 

Hooks and eyes are manufactured from wire by machinery. 
Two hundred hooks and the same number of eyes, each being 
made by its own machine, can be manufactured in a minute. 
The wire, on being unwound from a reel, is cut into the 
required length and drawn into the machine, where it is bent 
into shape, and comes out completed. The hooks and eyes are 
silvered or blackened with japan varnish. 

The machines run automatically. All that the machine-tender 
has to do is to see that they are supplied with wire. The 
hooks and eyes have to be sewed and stuck onto cardboard 
by hand. 

Emery 

Emery is a variety of corundum and is ranked among the 
hardest of minerals. It derives its name from Cape Emeri on 
the island of Naxos, Grecian Archipelago, where the best 
variety is obtained. It is also found in a number of places in 
the United States. 

It is used for polishing metals. The stone is crushed and 
sifted into powder of different degrees of fineness. 



INDEX 



Alphabets, 43-45 

Aprons, cooking, 125-127; sewing, 

113-116 
Attachments for sewing machine, 

108 

Backstitch, 19-20 

Basting stitch, even, 15, 16; combina- 
tion, 17; tailor, 17; uneven, 15, 
16 

Bias, cutting, 12 ; kinds of, 12 ; piecing 
of, 59-60 ; use of, 59 

Bias darn, 94 

Binding, kinds of, 61 ; methods of 
joining to garment, 61 ; use, 60 

Blanket stitch, inclosed, 31-32; on 
the edge, 32-33 

Bloomers, child's, 1 30-1 31 ; for older 
girl, 131-132 

Buttonhole stitch, 29-30 ; application 
to buttonhole, 79 

Buttonholes, cutting, 78-79 ; end fin- 
ishes, bar, 80 ; end finishes, fan, 79- 
81 ; kinds of, 81 ; marking for, 78 ; 
size of, 78 ; underneath preparation 
of, 79 

Buttons, kinds of, 83, 147; marking 
for, 82 ; method of sewing on, 83 ; 
thread shanks, 83 

Catchstitch, 27-29 

Catchstitch patch, 100-102 

Chain stitch, 38 

Cloth, how to tear, 12; kinds of, 11 ; 

to prepare for cutting, 12; structure 

of, 11 
Cloth darning, 92, 94-96 
Combination stitch, 21 



Continuous binding placket, 76-77 
Cooking apron, kimono, 125-127 
Cooking cap, Dutch, 124-125 
Corner darn, 95 
Corners, mitered, 72-74 
Cotton, manufacture of, 137-139 
Creasing, 52-54 
Crewel outline stitch, 39 
Cross stitch, 42, 46 

Darning, cloth, 92, 94-96 ; stockinet, 

88-93 
Diamond darn, 88-89 
Decorative stitching, 107 
Double-hemmed placket, 75-76 
Drawers, child's, 127-129 
Drills, thimble, 9 
Dutch cooking cap, 124-125 

Embroidery knots, 40-41 

Emery, 148 

Emery bag, 11 2-1 13 

Facings, 62-64 

False hem, 64 

Fastenings, 78-87 

Featherstitch, 36-38 

Felled seams, 48-51 

Fine drawing, 95-96 

Fine drawn patch, 96 

Fitted facing, 62 

Flannel seams, 51-52 

Flat felled seam, 48-49 

Fractions of a yard, 13 

French felled seam, 50 

French hem on damask, 118-119 

French knots, 41 

French seam, 48 



149 



i5o 



SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK 



Garment bias, 12 

Gathering, stitch used for, 55-56; 

double, 57 ; gauged, 58 
Gathers, placing or stroking of, 56 
Gauge, 13-14 
Grafting, 90-92 

Half-backstitch, 20 

Hemming stitch, 25-26; damask or 
French hemming, 118-119; ver- 
tical hemming, 26 

Hems, creasing of, 52-55 ; curved, 
54-55; rolled, 69-71; with side 
allowance, 129 

Hemstitched tea cloth, 1 19-120 

Hemstitching, kinds of, 33-36 ; prep- 
aration for, 34 

Herringbone stitch, 27-29 

Hooks and eyes, kinds, 84 ; manufac- 
ture of, 148 ; marking for, 84 ; plac- 
ing, 84 ; sewing on, 85-86 

Infant's Gertrude, 134-136 
Infant's slip, kimono, 132-134 

Kensington outline stitch, 39 
Kimono, infant's slip, 132-134; cook- 
ing apron, 125-127; nightgown, 
121-123 
Knots, embroidery, 40-41 ; French, 
41 ; to tie, 7 

Linen, manufacture of, 141-142 
Loops, thread, 86 

Machine gathering, 107 
Machines. See Sewing machines 
Measurements needed in sewing, 13 
Mending, darning, 88-96 ; patching, 

96-102 
Mitering the corner of a hem, 72-74 
Mitering two strips of cloth, 72 
Modified continuous binding placket, 

77-78 
Modified French seam, 68 



Napkin, hemming of, 118-119 

Needles, kinds, 2-3 ; makes, 2 ; manu- 
facture of, 145; sizes, 3; sizes in 
relation to thread, 4 

Needling the thread, 6 

Nightgown, kimono, method of mak- 
ing, 123; pattern, 122-123 

Numbers of needles and thread, 3 

Ornamental stitches, 31-46 
Outline stitch, crewel, 39 ; Kensing- 
ton, 39 
Overcasting stitch, 26-27 
Overhanded seam, 48 
Overhanding stitch, 22-24 

Patches, catchstitched, 101-102 ; fine 
drawn, 96 ; hemmed, 96-98 ; over- 
handed, 99-101 

Patterns, bloomers, child's, 130-131 ; 
bloomers for older girl, 131-132; 
cooking cap, 124; drawers, child's, 
127-129; gauge, 14; infant's Ger- 
trude, 134-135; infant's slip, 132- 
133; sewing aprons, pointed, 1 1 5— 
117 ; sewing aprons, round, 117 

Pillow case, making, 117-118 

Pin cushions, square, 109-1 10 ; tomato, 
111-112 

Pins, manufacture of, 146 

Plain sewing bag, 109 

Plackets, finishes for, 74 ; kinds of, 
74-78 ; lap of, 74-75 ; length of, 74 

Plain seam, 47 

Processes of constructions, bindings, 
60-62 ; facings, 62-64 ; fastenings, 
78-87 ; hems, 52-55 ; seams, 47-52 

Purl, of blanket stitch, 31 ; of button- 
hole stitch, 31 

Reaming of bindings, to prevent, 61 
Reversible placket, 77 
Rolled hems, 69-71 
Rolling and gathering, 71 
Ruffle under a tuck, 68-69 



INDEX 



151 



Ruffles, fullness of, 67 ; kinds, 66-67 ; Stockinet darning, 



methods of joining to garment, 

67-69 
" Run " or " Jacob's ladder," 90 
Running and backstitch, 21 
Running stitch, fly running, 17-19 

Scissors, 10, 144-145 

Seams, 47-52 

Selvage, 1 1 

Sewing aprons, shapes, 113; size, 

113; waist finishes, 113-115 
Sewing bags, plain, 109 ; small fancy, 

IIO-III 

Sewing machines, adjustments, 106; 
attachments, 108 ; care and clean- 
ing, 108; kinds, 103; makes, 103; 
parts, 104 ; use of, 104-105, 107 

Shears, makes, 10; manufacture of, 
144-145 ; use of, 10 

Shirring, 58 

Silk, manufacture of, 142-143 

Snap fasteners, marking for, 87 ; 
method of sewing on, 87 

Split binding, 61-62 

Split hem, 64 

Stay piece for darning, 95 

Stitch and space, definition of, 15 



Stockinet patch, 101-102 
Stocking darning, 88-90 
Stroking of gathers, 56-57 
Substitutes for stroking, 56-58 
Swiss darning, 91 

Tea cloth, hemstitched, 1 19-120 

Thimbles, drills, 9 ; kinds, 8 ; manu- 
facture of, 146; use of, 9 

Thread, kinds of, 4-5 ; length used 
in sewing, 5-6 ; machine, 4 ; makes, 
5 ; sizes, 5 

Thread loops, 86 

Thread shank, 83 

Threading the needle, 6 

Tools for the sewing class, 1-10 

Top sewing stitch, 22-24 

Tucks, allowances for, 64-65 ; creas- 
ing for, 65-66 ; hand run, 66 ; 
machine made, 66 

Warp threads, characteristics of, 1 1 • 
methods of determining, 11 

Whipping, 69-71 

Woof threads, characteristics of, 11 ; 
methods of determining, 1 1 

Wool, manufacture of, 1 39-1 41 



PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



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